Automobilista 2 Force Feedback Overview & Recommendations

Hello, I hope that everyone reading this has had happy holidays and that your life is full of peace and health!

I hadn't used AMS2 for several days, and just today I did a couple of online F1 Gen3 races (the last Gen2) and immediately noticed excessive front axle grip. Is there really a problem, or is it just me?

All my Moza hardware is still working...

I discarded the FFB file I was using and tried Default +, as well as the online lobby settings to rule out any assists that might have been active without me realizing it, went out and did a fast lap, and I kept noticing the same unnatural sensations that weren't there before this update. I use only realistic aids. Does anyone know anything, or is it just my perception due to not using it for a while?

 

I do want to point out that since the new ffb profiles got added (with the 2nd of October 2025 update), lfb at 50 and 0 damping is now the default Reiza setting for all the belt driven Thrustmaster wheels (like the ts-pc, which is what i use). they, for me at least, work better then the settings posted all the way at the start of the thread. But j haven't jumped back into the weeds of ffb tuning yet (and part of me is reluctant to)

 

Hmm, after some experimentation I've actually gone back to the values posted at the start of this thread (under the T-GT tab) and embracing the default+ profile, which feels a whole lot better then before.

@Dady Cairo - You've asked me about these things before, I wonder if you came up with something that works for you?

 

we need a new ffb guide the one posted dated back in 2022 with the v1.4 release.
I have a sc2 pro and ams2 is still the only sim i cannot set up in a somehow decent manner. I already tried custom ffb files, I tried all of them in fact, and didn't find anything of value.
the vanilla custom profile is kinda good with the steer-rack only forces it applies but it has the same problem that affects all other profiles like default or default+ : the damping slider which should be a good idea but is badly implemented for dd bases, while it provides a nice effect the more you add to the slider the more noise it brings in the ffb, like a strange ffb loop that can't be adjusted even adding smoothing into the wheel driver via recon filter. my guess is that at Reiza they never had the chance to truly test their sim with Simucube gear, and is a shame because I think the content is great and also the physics have made big steps forward since release, but at least for me it remains unplayable with the current state of ffb.
and trust me I tried so hard and I also want to like this sim so bad

 

Hello man. I also saw your post at overtake page. I don't know if what I'm gonna say is helpful, hopefully it will.

I have an old OSW IONICUBE, which is kinda the granddaddy of your SC2 wheelbase. Unless you have a Sport submodel, it has less torque than your unit, but it's wilder due to more rudimentary electronics and all-around a servo that, while great on hitting a sweetspot for size, power, efficiency and price (that's what made it so popular for DIY builds a decade ago), it's not tailor made for simracing like newer generations of it, like the one you have.

Because of this, it's my opinion that if my old brute can work well on AMS2, yours should do it too. Your unit has much better control on its basic design, the electronics handling it, and the firmware overseeing it.

Now, I don't know what exactly do you expect from the FFB, as it can be extremely subjective, and what you may like about it is something I may not. From personal experience, I will say that I never got along well with the Default profiles of the game, and relied on custom files, until the latest updates rewrote how they work, which made me ditch them and rely on what comes with the game.

I cannot precisely explain how the damper works, but it definitely does not work like the word implies. I treat it as a value that you need to apply to get the FFB loop in the control ballpark that you require. What I have done is to start with it at 50, and try to bump it up or down in steps of 5 to see how it responds, and go along with my feel until I find a value that I'm happy with. I cannot recall off the top of my head what I have nowadays, maybe when I get home I can open the game and tell the values, which may or may not act as a reference for you.

If the damper makes you crazy, maybe you should try customs. Danielkart actually developed most of his work with an SC2 unit, and as the damper is embedded on his file, you forget about it, you just set it at zero. On its description at the beginning he also writes recommended values to set on the SC2's firmware, so maybe that will suit you better?

Cheers!

 

I've used an AccuForce / SC1 / SC2 Pro / SC3 Pro with AMS2. In the early days of AMS2, I mostly tested using the Default FFB but, really preferred some of the custom files. More recently, Default or Default+ have become my preferred standards and to me, it's the best FFB of any title on the planet.

The main setting to focus on (imo) is the use of the AMS2 FFB-Damping. With the AMS2 FFB, Damping is key to achieving proper control whenever using the Default / Default+ FFB.
Too little Damping and the steering is going to feel overly responsive and out of control / Too much Daming and the steering will feel sluggish and response will be lagging behind during oversteer. I start with Damping at 50% and adjust from there. A small amount of Friction applied at the wheelbase can add some natural weight and stability to the overall steering behavior as well, maybe try between 3-10% range to start with.

 

thanks for the reply mate. I have a sc2 pro so if you run a small mige with the simucube1 ioni configuration we share the same torque more or less
thanks for the suggestion i will look into it
also, yes i originally posted it as a comment on overtake but i know too well how easy is to start a flame on that website, the home of simracing tribalism sadly

many thanks man, I already replied days ago but now I don't see the post anymore, don't know why.
anyway, by chance do you remember what values did you use for direct input effects, like didi ou follow the guide posted here were they suggest 0% for damping, friction and spring and are these suggestions still valid? this is what i meant when i said they should update the ffb guide since so much has changed since 2022

 

so after spending 2 days trying to find the perfect balance, I have to say that when you can find it, the FFB slaps hard indeed, so I take back everything I said and sorry for being that harsh
if someone is interested here are my Simucube2 Pro settings, tested mainly with Porsche 911GT3 v2 at Road Atlanta but they are good for everything else in the game
FFB profile : Default
Gain 30
LFB 0
FX 10
Damper 20
and here are my True Drive settings

To be fair, Ams2 is the hardest sim to set up regarding ffb, but if you take your time and test what needs to be tested you find that it all makes sense, even though there still are quite some differences between cars and classes, some are really good and some still need some refinement but overall when it clicks it feels good indeed.

 

..now I don’t want to be over dramatic but the more I play the more I understand why so many people insists that Ams2 is the best sim out there..and I also find more and more similarities with the og Ams1, a sim that I loved and still love with all my heart..I am discovering this 6 years after launch, as they say better late than never

 

Now that you've tuned it to your liking, could you share if you find the FFB on the F-V10 Gen 1 enjoyable?
With my RS 50 the FFB that car feels worse than it did with my old G29
But the F301 is great. Go figure...

 

Hi I just tested and yes, like I said there are still some differences between cars and surely this is one that needs some improvement, I agree

 

I don't know if it's a factor in your experience but that car's default is atrocious, feels like a driftx machine on slow corners. Setup tweaking improves it a lot. Not putting excuses though, a big part of the car roster requires a baseline revamp to bring it to the standards set by the 2005 sportscars.

 

TLDR: Can any Thrustmaster TX/T300 users actually feel the steering go light when the rear end begins to lose grip, and if so, would you please recommend CP and in-game FF settings? Thanks.

For anyone who prefers the long read, I've just come back to AMS2 after a few months away. Gave it a completely fresh install and started trying to dial in my FF settings. I've always struggled to find settings that seem believable, from the very first releases, and asked the devs early on (when the FF was getting a lot of airtime) to simply share their settings so that I knew I was feeling what they expected me to feel. Throughout the various developments, the problem has, for me, remained unsolved.

I really enjoy racing the smaller, less-powerful cars, like the FJ, Trainers and F Inter, and long to feel the steering go light when I'm on the edge of rear traction, so I thought I'd have another go at getting things dialled in.

I've read scores of threads and comments, both here and elsewhere, scrutinised Marc Collins' advice, watched Andy's video half a dozen times and tried really, really hard to be methodical in my approach. I've concentrated on one car, one track - Brands in the F Inter, and I can put a reasonable lap time in...but I'm still just not feeling it. There's feedback, but I've realised I'm relying solely on visual cues to tell me that the back is stepping out. Hawthorn is the best place to confirm this, as it's such a long corner (for such a slow car!) that I can really focus on the feedback I'm getting through the wheel and realise that it doesn't lighten at all.

Having done hundreds of laps here in the last week or two, I've now resorted to guessing at values to try to land, as if by magic, on the sweet spot. You can guess how that's going.

So, as the opening paragraph says, can anyone help before I lose my mind entirely? I've tried so hard to understand the different sliders and forces at play, and to isolate what needs to be boosted and what needs to be reduced so it doesn't muddy the feedback, but I'm just not getting it.

Thanks in advance to anyone who can give me a little hope..!

 

Hey guys, I need confirmation. I'm at a friend's house using the new Logitech RS50 as a steering wheel. Everything works perfectly, both in feel and use, and the telemetry HUD also confirms this. The only issue is that the histogram graph isn't showing up. That is, you can see the left/right steering wheel bars and the 5 force bars, but not the output graph. Either it's blank or it's a flat line. But, I repeat, the steering wheel works correctly, and it does so with all the default, default+, and custom profiles.
Can anyone with the same steering wheel confirm this? I don't want my friend to open a bug report needlessly.

 

Thrustmaster T300 driver settings for FFB

Hi Mr C i use this settings #41 maybe turn down the Dampning to 14 i just reinstalled the game and are still fiddling but only with the dampening hope this can keep you sane

 

Thanks Kim, that's got me back to a much more stable base - definitely some sanity restored! I wasn't sure about that thread since it was pre- the big FF update of last autumn, but it seems like a good place to revert to.

I still miss the GPL '65 mod feedback of turning into a corner and using a bit of lift-off oversteer to get the nose around: something that seemed to me to be beautifully represented in the force feedback. Maybe I got used to an unrealistic model and am finding it hard to move on. I should probably stick with these settings for now, avoid the temptation to fiddle, and just learn to interpret them better.

Thanks again for the help - much appreciated.