Automobilista 2 Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

Hmmm, FX should have no impact on front-end feel--that's all in LFB if I understand correctly. Unless....you are so close to the clipping limit that the extra "stuff" in FX is pushing it over the edge.

But, time to experiment!

 

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OK, I can confirm after testing that FX definitely affects the steering feel. Fascinating!

Can you try a "heavy" FFB car like the Sprintcar and a light one like the F-Trainer and describe what 0 FX versus 40 FX does to the steering for you (assuming your other settings are decent to start with)?

 

I drive the Sprint car alot , FX loses front end feel , like i cant feel under steer of even brake lockups (roll BB to front and smash pedal) if i raise FX ! Zero i have great under steer feel . I will have to test lighter cars and report back .

 

How do you know if you are close to clipping there is no feedback display?

 

I have mentioned this strange FX behavior in one of the beta forums, but nobody reflected on it. It is not a clipping issue. I do not tested it in the newest EA, just keeping it at zero since beta8. It does not add anything useful, after all.
The LFB can be dangerous too. It works like the Curves tool in photo editing. You can enhance the light forces, but too much LFB is "washing out" your FFB, you are loosing the difference between middle and high forces, reducing fidelity and linearity.
I feel, that for a T300 wheel, the recommended range is good, I am using 30.
We indeed need a per car gain setting, preferable with hotkey assignment and per car saving.

 

I also tested the difference between FX at 50 and FX at 0 with Copa Fusca and F Trainer Adv.
With FX at 0 you can feel the front end and brake lockups much better than with FX at 50.
So my FX will be set at 0 from now on. Thanks guys.

 

We did have one in Beta but as it was the pCars2 one it was removed for EA (for obvious reasons), no word yet on whether Reiza are designing their own but I would hope/think so. Otherwise it's very hard to tell if you're clipping or not, you might "think" you are when in reality you're nowhere near the clipping point, I've done extensive testing in the past on this very subject and my results concluded a Clipping Tool is an absolute must for every Sim, as otherwise it's simply too hard to reach that ideal Point without one.

 

I have been posting how with the latest updates how I cant get rid of the grainy feel and sound from my accuforce wheel. I have at each update deleted the automobilista 2 folder from "my documents" and gone through the assign buttons, setup and calibrate my wheel & pedals. Even with doing that this time I could not get rid of the grainy feeling. I am pleased too report that the problem has now gone.
I removed all profiles and previous instances of AMS2 from simcommander (SC4) and made new connections and profiles with just with the basic inputs. In game basic FFB 50/10/0 as a starting point and I was completely taken by surprise at how good it was again. I then went on to complete the dialing process and have been able to use the custom file very generously posted by Lexx in his thread LexxVR's Friction Addiction Custom FFB for AMS2.
My in game FFB settings using Lexx's file are 58/0/0 and SC4 settings in the pictures attached.

While I am using the custom FFB file and it is working well I was also able to get great results with the default file.

 

This FX found is great and I will test to lower it. I like to feel my engine vibration, but I will redirect this to my buttkicker (under seat) instead through Simvibe. Thanks guys!

 

I suspect that something is broken in regard to the FX-setting because it certainly worked properly in earlier builds. I'll try it at zero and higher again for comparison.

 

True, but it is also possible to feel obvious clipping.

 

With PCars2, there were times where I felt certain effects may be clipping while the overall FFB was not. That may be much harder to detect with other wheels(?)

Generally, with a DD-wheel, soft-clipping is super obvious when it happens. Most of us choose to use the tuning method of applying 100% power at the motor / reducing Gain in game to reach desired force levels. In most cases, that means we won't experience any soft-clipping what so ever, as we are operating far below any soft-clipping range.

Of course, wheels with less available torque have to operate in a balanced range for optimal results (Hardware Output / Game ffb-signal output). From a tuning perspective, that's much more challenging to do. If the hardware can hard-clip at full power, that can further exacerbate the challenge.

 

Mr. Renato .... with the latest update (0.8.2.0) I can now set on my Logitech G920 the GAIN to 60 (before with the version 0.8.0.1 I used 40) without clipping (range 50-70 as desired and depending on the cars) ... it is not 100 as recommended (it's impossible not to have clipping) but it is a good improvement, and now the FFB is more defined and full-bodied than before ... the rest of the settings have remained unchanged, that is, LFB 80 and FX 60-70 (but this last is at your pleasure). The pendulum effect still remains (especially with some cars), but now it has decreased. Braking has improved and the driving sensations are more natural and full-bodied. Still much to be done, especially in the details of the first-degree steering and deadzone, but the direction seems the right one.

I am really satisfied with the progress and corrections that Reiza is adopting ... this update has reassured me about future development ... good job Reiza!!!

 

100 was never recommended for in-game Gain. 100 is recommended as the baseline for the Windows control panel strength.

 

So long as the game ffb-strength is set to avoid major clipping, that'll work fine but, short of having effective tools to insure that's the case, most seem to use the method I mentioned. From purely a safety perspective, Fanatec's approach is the safer one, especially with really powerful motors.

SimCommander has a very good clipping-meter that not only shows the FFB-levels but, also where on the track clipping occurs. It may be the most accurate form of meter to date.

 

Renato clearly suggested running in-game Gain 100 and LFB 80 for the G29 wheels.

 

I think that is the starting point, as are the recommendations for all other wheels. It is not mandatory to run it at 100, but 100 in the control panel is always assumed. The key is if you have a G, you will be at or near the upper-end of Gain, so don't start calibrating yours at the default of 50. Mid-range wheels can start at 50 ad work up or down a bit. DD wheels start lower--even for safety reasons!

Do you like extremely light-weight forces, or does your wheel feel reasonable even at Gain of 44? It is just an anomaly to use Gain below even the level most mid-powered wheels use. So, if you are experiencing anything negative, the first suggestion will be to use "expected" or "normal" settings. The person above said they raised theirs after 0.8.02?

It is also possible the G29 doesn't behave the same as the older G25/27's. My wheel is quite different between the original and the v2/v2.5 even though they are all called "CSW."

 

hello i tried you link but it gave an error could you post it again. Im having no issue with VR and index but would like to read the post still