Automobilista 2 Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

Here is a recommendation;
Put karsten’s ffb files (version .36 or higher) as default ffb and then, by chosen wheel in the options; apply corresponding file.
It is really helpful to feel the car under your seat and interact ASAP with your inputs.

 

Since there are so many experts here, I will ask for some partly off-topic advice.

I installed the new v400 driver from Fanatec that has a more automated way to update firmware in it. My driver and wheel firmware are now at the latest setting. I have updated this wheel's firmware at least 10 times over the years with zero issues.

This time, a strange problem has occurred that may only affect AMS 2. AMS 2 now thinks my wheel has 1080 degrees of rotation instead of the 900 that it actually has.

I recalibrated my wheel in AMS 2 after updating and when I hold my wheel at 90 degrees for the second step of the calibration, it clearly reads 1080. When I go into the game, my wheel and the on-screen wheel are now out-of-sync.

I exited and when back to the Fanatec control panel to ensure the new firmware hadn't somehow gifted me with new hardware capabilities. Sadly, it still only goes up to 900 degrees, and all settings were correct.

Go back into AMS 2 and try again. Same thing. 1080. So, I recalibrate a third time and try to trick it by moving my wheel until it says 900 in the second phase. Unfortunately, my wheel is still out-of-sync when I do that. The steering is noticeably slower on-track and regardless is wrong, so it needs to be fixed.

Went back to AMS to see if it would be affected. Nope, everything is as it was there at 900 degrees and auto-rotation working for all cars with proper sync between screen and real wheel.

Any ideas what on earth is going on here? Do I need to test other sims, or is this likely a Madness piece of madness?

 

Not according to Fanatec. I even got an e-mail from them inviting me to get it. Never had that for any other driver update. Check their site--it's there under the official drivers.

 

400 working perfectly for me so far. Guess it is official now?
Latest Public Final Drivers - Bookmark this thread to be notified of new uploads!

 

I've had strange issues with Fanatec FW updates in the past, may be worth-while to re-run the update process and re-boot when completed. If you can manage cleaning the registry after un-installing the old stuff / updating, it may be helpful.

 

Thanks, guys. I looked at the feedback on the Fanatec forum and noticed others complaining about auto-rotation in rF2 (the only of my sims I didn't try the new driver with). Bottom-line: the firmware has a problem for my wheel related to rotation angles. It may also for v2 and v2.5 CSW since that's what others were complaining about.

I had to revert to the prior (680) firmware version, with which I could use with the new driver (400), but am just leaving it at 381 because for the older wheels there is no functionality change. I did get a nice firmware update of my pedals out of it...

This is classic Fanatec...release something and then spend months correcting dozens of small issues with a random selection of various wheels and rims. I have updated drivers and firmware innumerable times with no issues until this one. That made sense because my wheel is older and simpler. Now it is probably so old that no one is paying attention to simple issues like the fact that it only has 900 degrees of range.

As if auto-rotation isn't already problematic enough for people, it is now an issue for some of us where it was never an issue before.

 

Ehh guys, just did some laps with different cars / different traacks since I wanted to check out how everything feels after the patch.
One thing i've encountered is - the FFB "per car" regulation doesn't work for me on some cases. I'm not sure how or when it works, but sometimes i change it to like 55% and steering still feels hard as rock, sometimes a restart of the race changes the FFB, sometimes i have to lower it even further. If i do so, on some cases (like changing the wheel from 52% to 50%) wheel goes from competely hard to nearly no FFB at all. I don't get it.

Otherwise, the FFB feels great on some cars now (especially the new Ginetta GT5 Cup is amazing), on others I think it needs a bit of improvement still.

 

Good day to you all . This is not a problem with AMS2 , I believe it's a hardware issue with my CSL elite . Just wondering if anybody else has experience with this on Fanatec hardware ?

 

Yeah it's being collected tomorrow , already been to the repair centre once !
If it isn't fixed this time I'm going to be seriously pissed off .

 

thinking to give the default FFB some try again.

Are LFB and FX still having the same function than described in the OP? I know Karsten Custom FFB has evolved in a sense they have completely different effects so I am wondering

thanks

 

A member on a RaceDepartment thread said the dynamic dampening is not working correctly and that you should set it to 0 in-game and 0 in your Thrustmaster control panel as it creates weird FFB.

any confirmation or truth to this statement?
I have 100 in TM and 20% dampening in-game using the default ffb and haven't experienced any issues. I tried with both set to 0 and it felt loose and off to my liking.

@Renato Simioni
any chance you can update your opening post in this thread as it's almost a yr old and new features have been added.

Cheers

 

The difference is that higher ams2 gain will make the signal clip earlier, while higher wheel ffb will not. You can however keep this in check by watching the telemetry hud and not dial the ams2 up to where it starts filling the top bars.

 

There will be a difference on the in game Lfb slider and possibly also damping slider(I have no idea).

Other than that the difference will only down to your wheel base.
It might become faster and more precise at higher force settings, if this is done by higher current to the motor. It might also apply some filtering, in which case that will be on a different sized signal.

Safest bet is higher force on wheel base. But if you feel it better the other way, then no need to not change it.

 

Does this method make sense?

1. Set the wheel's strength so that its peak output is as much (or as little) as you prefer.
2. Set AMS 2's overall Gain to 100. LFB is up to you until Reiza gives clearer instructions.
3. Using the FFB meter on the telemetry UI, calibrate each car's FFB to a level just short of clipping.