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Automobilista 2 Force Feedback - Overview & Recommendations

Discussion in 'Automobilista 2 - General Discussion' started by Renato Simioni, Apr 4, 2020.

  1. TekNeil

    TekNeil Take me back to the 2.4l, twin 50 weber days...

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    I tried the below, but my wheel still sounds/feels like it's going to explode into bits, with a very random feeling while driving. I just tried the damping out of curiosity really, hoping it may remove some of the massive noise/vibration/rattling I seem to have.
    Gain: 50 (Car setup also 50 / I've never really run these two anywhere near this low before)
    LFB: 80
    FX: 25
    Damping: 0

    I then tried varying levels of extremes (LFB from 0-100 / FX from 0-100 etc) and the overly fussy center/rattling is still there...

    I'll do a deletion of the folders/files as I haven't do so for the past two or three proper updates now.
     
  2. sk8

    sk8 Member

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    Try putting lfb to 0. Fixed everything for my t300. It's like lfb is min force now.
     
  3. buddhatree

    buddhatree Member

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    It sure would be nice if the Devs updated the first post with the latest FFB info and recommendations. It's like we're all guessing here.
     
    • Agree Agree x 8
  4. Domagoj Lovric

    Domagoj Lovric Moderator Staff Member

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    Hello, can you pls state what vehicle this happened in? We've patched this recently, it shouldn't happen.

    Yes long overdue now. Will be posted sometime over the course of next week.
     
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  5. Dean Ogurek

    Dean Ogurek Well-Known Member Reiza Backer

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    Just to confirm that I've not had a single issue with FFB (pull to one side) recently using SimuCube1, it seems to be happening for some SimuCube2 users though.
     
  6. Domagoj Lovric

    Domagoj Lovric Moderator Staff Member

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    Many users reported that?
    As internally core ffb force calculation and ffb scripting system is "wheel type agnostic". All wheels are "communicated to" via standard DirectInput interfaces (except Logitech G923 that uses proprietary TrueForce interface).
     
  7. Dean Ogurek

    Dean Ogurek Well-Known Member Reiza Backer

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    I've seen several posts from SC2 users reporting that issue, both here and in the Granite Devices forum (iirc). I don't recall the exact timing though, may not all have been that recent.
    My primary point for commenting was that I'm not seeing such issues with SimuCube1, though.
     
  8. Coanda

    Coanda ohhh whinge whinge f@#ken whinge..

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    On a vehicle such as the McLaren Formula Retro when I apply the brake whilst the vehicle is moving straight my wheel pulls left. Could someone please explain to me what that is trying to communicate..?
     
  9. Scraper

    Scraper Well-Known Member Reiza Backer

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    I noticed a slight tug to the right after I increased the front left camber when driving the Caterham 620r at Kyalami 76. It was noticeable when braking very hard in Turn 1. I assumed that the FFB was conveying the differing straight-line grip between the front tyres but it might have been my over-active imagination. :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2021
    • Informative Informative x 1
  10. Domagoj Lovric

    Domagoj Lovric Moderator Staff Member

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    @Coanda it doesn't always pull left doesn't it? Press brake further and you'll notice wheel locking up or perhaps locked up already. That is what that is "trying to communicate".
     
  11. Coanda

    Coanda ohhh whinge whinge f@#ken whinge..

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    I'd say most of the time it does to some degree and always left. It can be as much as 15-20 degrees if I don't fight it. As a test if I drive slow in 1st and 2nd gear and apply a little brake it will pull more than if I was driving at speed and applied more brake. I changed cams and it was pulling before lockup..

    add: to a lesser degree I have also felt this on the M1 pro car especially on out laps..

    Q: Is it safe to say the more pull the closer I am getting to locking a front tyre?
     
    Last edited: Mar 16, 2021
  12. Domagoj Lovric

    Domagoj Lovric Moderator Staff Member

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    Tested here, can't see to pick it pulling always to left.

    Answer to Q: yes.

    It's normal for it to be more pronounced on low speeds since you'll less likely to lockup on high speed.
     
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  13. Coanda

    Coanda ohhh whinge whinge f@#ken whinge..

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    @Domagoj Lovric - Thank you for the explanation that makes sense to me now.. I am running this vehicle at 25 N.m so I am feeling it more than usual..
     
  14. Coanda

    Coanda ohhh whinge whinge f@#ken whinge..

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    Curious; could this pull left under braking function ever be tied to the fx slider or will it require custom manipulation to lower or remove this sensation..?
     
  15. Kuku Maddog

    Kuku Maddog Active Member

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    I’m still confused by this entry in the change log of update.
    “Added pneumatic trail, caster trail, rar wheels forces as customizable variables FFB script”

    I’ve not seen anything to do with this in the default generation of custom file ?

    or was this more to facilitate the work of current created custom files ?
     
  16. BHouse

    BHouse New Member

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    Hello together,
    I just created an account to thank you guys for the awesome job you did with those custom ffb files. I am relatively new to AMS2 but those files make the ffb experience so much better with my DD wheel (SC2). Keep up the good work!
     
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  17. F1Aussie

    F1Aussie Active Member

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    I have been getting the same thing in the original ginetta since I first drove it many months ago, I did post about it but no one seemed to have the same issue so never found out what it was. It used to happen even with ABS up high.
     
  18. Raceracerace

    Raceracerace BANNED BANNED

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    The wheel feels like that because LFB is too high - IF you agree with me, then ignore the rest of the post, try the settings I list though, and you'll be golden almost certainly.

    I think our mate has a CSW. A cut above in terms of fidelity, to a t300. A tx is more close again but I think you will find a CSW will have more fidelity than even a TX, even if overall the forces are much the same in strength. So if thats confusing, say it the other way: to a tx its comparable, but to a 300, a 300 only makes the bar there (its slight either way don't worry too much) owing to its torque. Meaning his settings may not translate as well as he would like.

    Sounds like a restart of the game might have been needed, too if things feel off. I always do a restart if the settings are acting up.

    Could be a change was made or something and didn't go back to main menu, but even with my below setup if I put it on 80 gain it will do minimal clipping. I always keep it at around 70-75 unless I am testing and I honestly never want to mess with settings. A minimal red bar in telemetry is not the end of the world, but for a long time I remember for default keeping it on 70. When I use custom I can get away with 80 but default and custom are a fair bit different under the hood I suppose.

    I note Marc's original discussion about this had much different settings. He also disagrees with the original less clear post I wrote here. For his sake this is why I have re-written a less than clear post. But if so then it just goes to show that some people like lfb as a thing, as of or [most likely] before the latest patches. I would just suggest try it without it now. Its exactly how I came to like the damping setting (with its extended functionality seems in default, and its altered function in custom).

    Maybe all he needs to do is lower lfb and up the gain a fraction. Beyond my settings below I also raise gain to 100 when using custom sometimes (normally its 75), and there is not as much clipping as one may think. Its probably better suited there to 85 or 90 max - but I want to point out the moment you add low force boost in that scenario - it ruins the signal because LFB is intended for something entirely different and they did the ffb in default and custom so good now, even in Assetto Corsa original, it simply does not need lfb forces...unless you have a gear wheel maybe it does, but it would still make things more muddy.

    If anyone can get more out of a belt drive wheel then that would be great too. The above may not feel natural to oneself at first but give it 5 mins. Thats more like how a car should be. It should not be like driving over gravel or feel as though its a metal drum in place of wheels, it should be feeling like rubber - like its mounted and being communicated through a steering column several joined pieces deep - like its got delay and stickiness to it but also smoothness in motions because of how that force/friction is being overcome by a powerful engine. It also does not need the CP gain higher than default if that is being done.

    Maybe there is room somewhere to update or inform in game about ffb - because its across all sim titles with so much dev done on them, maybe there is misinformation including from myself out there.

    I guess we all need to do telemetry, as the less clipping the better. But I am convinced LFB is out now - if I put it on 20 it might be ok, but it does not seem to last as a good setting.

    Note: I did edit this post after I got the disagree to be more informative as to what I am on about - and I could be wrong but I think its because I had said no LFB. And I did try in the interim but its only dampening which has demanded an increase of late. Even in AC you don't use any additional forces. But thats ok because its also preferences of people too.

    - I use 75 on default (its gain is stronger by all accounts than the current custom/different scale)
    0 LFB (most belts surely now would not use lfb, and if you do, at most 20 I would think IF you also use middle-high dampening to compensate even if dampings function has expanded in scope these days)
    -50 fx (at most or it could interfere with the signal in heavy places, had it happen to me)
    - 50 damping (seems amazing and well-suited on default or custom because it expands the sideways forces dynamically it would seem, so there's more to infer from the feedback)

    If there is any red-bar clipping above the bare minimum I would dial back gain and ALSO (operative word) refuse to up the LFB to compensate - this is how I wound up at a wonderful and highly drivable 70 max for some time. I don't want any over heating, muddy or choppy force feed back bottoming out or scuttling along the graphs ceiling just because I might prefer an extra pound/kg of force [torque]. Doesn't matter to me. But like that guy in the post I bet fidelity mattered and so for me I refused to use damping until it was a solid proposotion.

    And thats what I am saying, the settings are now a solid proposition to be run like that. Its probably objectively better, never mind subjectively. If its subjective then that will end up being the case anyway and no objectivity will matter, which is fine its not my game. Just give it a go would be my suggestion.

    That is a dramatic difference from 6 and even 3 months ago. Its no wonder the guy is adjusting his settings just like me and many others. We can't keep track of them! And good dialed in settings are better than ever.

    __

    So I am sorry if thats a lot of reading, I really am - it was a lot of typing. But the thing is I would rather say it once properly because even the guy who disagreed with a former post (that essentially said the same thing) people stumble around but I have never struggled for good settings.

    The time I did, in AC original, I never played it. Then I did not as I sorted it out. And I think its great. Some people talk it down, at which point you must ask yourself if you're there to play it for fun or are you saving for the Audi R8? You may have to if you want a little more than just fun.

    I've never really struggled to get good settings in AMS2, which is saying something even if until now a lot of people didn't rate this game - I certainly have always rated it highly. Its got nothing to do with LFB. In saying that, the settings you like, if you like LFB, then you'll of course do that because you like that. But if I take a long time to explain something, I feel as though it may be worth a moment, because normally the next step after not getting good ffb settings for a wheel is playing another game when you get your leisure time. Been there too, even in AMS2.

    So I don't mind taking a moment to explain the settings.
     
    Last edited: Mar 18, 2021
  19. Carlosfr

    Carlosfr New Member

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    hola buenas, alguien me podria ayudar con los valores para un thrumaster tmx pro
    gracias de antemano.
     
  20. Marc Collins

    Marc Collins Well-Known Member Reiza Backer

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    First, my apologies--I hit disagree and then my computer broke (literally) before I had a chance to write the actual reply!

    I AGREE with what you have said that the new Damping setting is worth some time/exploration. It was put there to avoid the vagaries of external damping settings on DD wheels, but any time there is a setting we must experiment with it to see if it adds value or to understand how to use it.

    I will also agree that LFB and Damping may be somewhat interchangeable on belt/gear wheels. Who knows? There are too many exceptions to rules in the world of FFB hardware...even within the same manufacturers, complete reversals (in drivers/settings) occur throughout the evolution of their products (Fanatec and Logitech are each vivid examples of this).

    Everyone who is curious whether their FFB could be better than it is now, should play with the settings and not be afraid of any of them. None are debilitating or remove FFB effects--they just adjust the "flavour" of them.

    Personal anecdote, the last change in February to the FFB did affect how Damping and LFB work on my wheel. Initially, when the Damping slider was introduced, adding any amount did not work well on my set-up. Something shifted due to the new code (and possibly also affected by the dozens of car physics changes that are all occurring within the context of the devs using the latest settings, including Damping) and Damping no longer dulls everything in a negative way. It is similar to, but different from LFB as you describe, so definitely worth exploring.
     

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