Automobilista 2 V1.4 Force Feedback Overview & Recommendations

Plus there is this neverending story about dampening, namely Fanatec DPR and TM Damper slider - does it or doesn't it matter. In theory, I know it should not matter BUUUUUT, I swear, that on my TSPC sometimes I have most certainly felt the difference but on another time when I did the test, nothing changed. I don't know if it depends on my mental state, driven car, ffb profile or moon phase (historic weather data with moon phases that alter the physics would be bloody awesome by Reiza though).

Most recently @CrimsonEminence @James Lee GTE @Danielkart went on about it in v1.4 release thread but the end result was usual, which I agree with, that everyone should try themselves what suits their personal tastes better. It might be a placebo, it might not be a placebo, nobody knows.

 

Hello Kivipalur! Of course I tested it. But it makes absolutely no difference whether you set DPR to 100% or 0%. It's completely identical, I leave it at 100% because there are simulations where DPR can be used. greet Daniel

 

I don't know if is it because my dificult with english but I never completely understood what kind of strength Damping add to the wheel. When I translate the word to portuguese it makes no sense, but I found this generic description on google:

"a decrease in the amplitude of an oscillation as a result of energy being drained from the system to overcome frictional or other resistive forces."

Is it right and fits in FFB context? From my understanding, it will make steering wheel heavier and FFB foces will be soften by this weight as they interact. In proportion, it would be like the difference between a hydraulic and a not hydraulic steering? Sorry if I am asking something obvious but I just cant figure what it is.

I have an old Thrustmaster T500-Rs and I always used Damping=0/LFB=0. But, after this post, I tried T-GT recomendations and I liked it... its something different from what I am used but maybe a path to explore and improve my experience. So, I will play with some fine adjustments and that's why I would like to understand what Damping is doing here.

Thanks from any help

 

I tend to think of Damping in terms of fluid-damping. Increasing the Damping increases the drag or resistance to movement. Imagine waving a stick in the air, then try it in water, then in honey. With increased viscosity, resistance to movement increases.

Damping in ffb will add resistance, reducing wheel velocity, oscillation, and overall steering-response (Speed). With high Damping, the Self-aligning Torque influence on steering will also be reduced or delayed. This is an obvious indication of having too much Damping applied.

 

For the DD2 users here are my settings
FFB Strength 36, FEI 100 and FORce Effect strength 100 and everything else wheel related Zero! Scaling set to peak, spring strength keep at 100 to align with AMS2 menu spring strength and Braking effects whatever you fancy.
Default flavour
Gain 36 LFB 0 FX 0 and Damping 16
Default + flavour
Gain 30 LFB 0 FX 0 and Damping 24
In game car specific gain 94%
You may read that DPR is best set to 100 and not 0. My DD2 brothers, I implore you to try DPR at both 0 and 100.
As Walter Sobchack famously said in The Big Lebowski “Mark it Zero!”. Truer words have never been spoken haha
Hope my settings help, enjoy and be nice to each other!

Edit - Messaging other DD 1 and 2 users, the personal taste range for FX ranged from 0 to 5. With LFB everyone on these wheels I’ve communicated with agree on 0.

 

Not sure if you are wanting us to post our reccomendations on here or not but here is what works for me. I am generally 1-3 seconds faster (depending on track and car) than any other FFB settings I've tried. Give it a go and let me know what you think.

Wheel Thrustmaster T300RS GT


In gme settings

Custom @Danielkart V44 attached
Gain 100
LFB 45
FX 40
Damping 30

I have tried Default and Default+ and many other custom FFB files but this is my favorite by far.

 

The stick was a clear example. Thank you.

 

Why are the recommended in-game gain values for non-DD consumer wheels different? I don't really understand. Technically you should (IMO) be sending the same signal to the wheels with the same amount of clipping, meaning the in-game gain should be identical, and the specific differences between wheel bases should be covered by their specific driver settings. I would also understand sending lower gain signal to wheelbases that need generally higher low force boost (so the lower gain would somewhat compensate for the overall higher signal levels).

But the recommendation seems to be pretty much exactly the opposite - send the lowest gain signal (in-game gain at 75) with the least amount of clipping to wheelbases that don't need a lot of low force boost (TM - and in my brief experience with Default+ on the current patch, even 75 in-game gain can still clip a fair bit, but I understand the "acceptable" amount of clipping is somewhat personal preference), and send signal with a highest amount of clipping (in-game gain of 80-100) to wheelbases that need the most low force boost (Logitech), further worsening the clipping(?)

I'd really love to understand the logic behind it. I assume sure there is one.

You have it backwards. TM Control Panel gain should be personal preference (to adjust the strength of the forces you feel in your hands), in-game gain should not be.

Also, T300 is perfectly linear all the way to 100%. Those homemade tests (using Wheelcheck) are based on a flawed methodology - they measure the amount of wheel movement in response to the force/torque generated, not the actual amount of force/torque produced.

 

My menu not showing Defaut+
Only default & custom

how do I activate default+ option ?

 

My DD wheel doesn't have all those silly settings like slow rate etc just Damping. Inertia and Friction. No wonder everyone's sooo confused. I feel sorry for you all. Quality equipment like a top end Amplifier would be lucky to have Bass and Treble and some dont even have that

 

I meant slew rate

 

May I ask what wheel you have and what settings you recommend?

 

My ffb system dosnt have them either
Just : power , smoothing , bump stiffness

Leo Bodnar Simsteering

 

Hello @Domagoj Lovric

Nice write up, it was clearly needed

I have a TSPC racer so same base as TGT
I see you recommen Auto center settings by the wheel and at 0% instead of the regular By the Game
Any reasoning for that or is it a mistake?

Thanks a lot

 

Please look at that file below.
It is 10 times bigger than the default, but where, they got the information, to modify it?
Where are the documentation, please?

 

It is because if you adjust the Contol Panel gain, you limit the motor maximum output, ffb peak forces will be lower and your wheel starts to clip earlier. Basically with TSPC if you set CP gain around 40% you get yourself a TMX/G29 or around 65% you get a T300 (in terms of max output).
When CP gain is at 100%, full range of the wheel power can be used by the game and you can lower the in-game gain slider by personal preference to have same (I'm not sure if I use right expression) average strength, while having higher peak forces without clipping.

It is true for all the wheels DD or non-DD, and in all the games. If you have weaker wheel, you have to have higher gain in game for same average strength. Hence the recommendation from original post.

 

Have been having a bit of a a play with the Reiza AMS2 settings for DD1 and Maurice's profiles and in game settings for fanalab and I must say that I much prefer the feel of Maurice's profiles.

Does anyone else use them? And if so what are your thoughts about them compared to Reizas settings?

 

How can I add the drop off from understeer to the custom barebones profile?

So for the CSWv2 I should be looking at the T-GT FFB settings for a starting point?

 

Yes, after using various variants of Karsten's rFuktor files, I decided to try Maurice's profiles, and so far I like them a lot. Not a big surprise really, since they are built around another rFuktor variant

I've also tried the new recommendations from Reiza, but find the FFB way too light compared to Maurice's profiles and the rFuktor variants. Will do some more testing and play with the gain a bit and see what it feels like then.

An interesting difference between Reiza and Maurice is that the Reiza recommendations use a lot of in game damping, and very little on the wheel side, but Maurice use a bit of damping wheel side, but nothing in game... Still the general feel isn't all that different.