Automobilista 2 V1.6.8 FFB default/default+ settings - What do you run?

When racing, I will often hit 10-12Nm.

My settings are;
Game, Default+
gain 50
LFB 0
FX 65
Damping 30
Menu 52

Wheel, DD2
Sen Auto
FFB 50
NDP 1
NFR 4
NIN 4
INT 1
FEI 100
FOR 100
SPR 100
DPR 100
SHO on
BFR Max
BLI Off

 

Just followed your video (again) after I have used DanielKart's files for a long time. Man, this is such a good video and clear explanation. It has transformed the game for me again. I have my gain much higher now and also added more damping and FX than I used to run. I find the 100 you set in your video to be too much, but around 60-75 it is great to me. Can I buy you a coffee somehow for your effort and help?

 

You are welcome (and I also don't use 100 FX, personally). Give the video a like to help @andy_east123. I had explained this process in the forum about 200 times and was exhausted when we came up with the idea of a nice, detailed, step-by-step video guide.

It was only worth the effort because so many people like you replied or DM'd me with similar comments about how it transformed the game experience for them. Glad to help one more person!

It's not a bad idea to retrace the steps any time there is a change to FFB big enough that you notice it. After doing it once, I find you can repeat the process in a very short time without any guide. It's actually quite easy once you familiarize yourself with how each slider affects the forces. Neutralizing all the "crap" on your wheel interfering with the proper FFB is often the hardest part.

 

I actually have started watching through Andy's video after the recent Moza + AMS2 changes. I've been playing around with different settings in-game as well as changing a few things in Pithouse, and actually finding that putting FX up to about 50 makes Default+ more enjoyable for me. It seems that closer to 0 (I was using 20) works better for Default, but higher (50-75) is better for Default+ - my personal opinion of course. I've been doing endless laps in the Super V8 around Bathurst today to blow out the cobwebs, work out what tweaks to make to car setup, and finally playing around with FFB and it's interesting what changes you can find with a bit of experimentation.

I definitely wasn't a fan of the default "GT" setup that Moza loaded when it reset everything - it had set wheel strength to 50%, and put in a whole lot of damping and such that I never use.

 

Hi, I have been trying your settings with my R9 and CS V2P. I have to say I like these settings but with the "FX" increased to 50 as you mention in a later post. The settings are similar to what I was using previously but I was trying to limit the hands-off oscillations with more damping in the game settings. I can see now that it was deadening the feeling too much. Most guides will tell you that the "Base FFB curve" should be linear but having the minor dip does tame the oscillations. What are the exact coordinates for the first point you have? Mine is x5,y2.
What would you say is the benefit of using the Moza Pithouse damping instead of the ingame damping? I am also confused by the "DirectInput Effect Tuning", does it actually do anything in AMS2?
The only other change I made was to use "conservative" temperature control and I also knocked the "Gain" down to 60%, just to stop clipping and to be honest make it a nice round number.

 

The in-game Damping is completely separate from and different from the wheelbase damping. The latter is a generic setting that overlays all FFB output coming from any game. The former is connected to the physics output of the game and is very specific to AMS 2. See the video link in my post above above for more details. You will want to minimize or neutralize the MOZA damping and then use the in-game Damping appropriately (settings and preferences vary, but zero or a minimal setting often advocated by the uninformed who confuse it with wheelbase damping will yield a bad result more often than not).

 

I have watched the video several times and it is very helpful. Looks like I will be going back to the basics again. I found previously that setting the in-game damping to 40% would pretty much stop the hands-off oscillations but at that level it would also dumb the FFB. I'm still confused about what the "max wheel speed" and "natual inertia" do in Pithouse. What settings would be considered as neutral to let the AMS2 FFB do its thing. If I'm honest, I'm struggling to feel what changing these settings actually does. Sometimes I'm convinced it feels better but it could just be a placebo.

 

As I have mentioned so many times, the hardest part of setting up the FFB for any game is first figuring out how to neutralize all the "equalizer" settings on our wheels. And figuring our what some of them mean as the labels are as opaque as the ones the software devs often use!!!

The goal for a DD wheel is to have some amount of friction and natural inertia so it feels like a mechanical wheel and not an electric motor suspended in empty space. All the FFB in our sims evolved out of an era when there were only mechanical wheels. The manufacturers of DD wheels try to compensate for this with settings like the ones you mentioned, but it is not clear how to configure those in the best way. We need a video or instruction how to do it....for every wheel!!

In the meantime, my advice is that you persevere and learn what you can and do your best to make sure that the manufacturer's attempt to correct for a lack of mechanical feeling in their DD wheel doesn't tread into actually distorting the FFB. We just want a base line of resistance/friction/natural inertia so the game FFB can operate "freely."

This is a lot of words with no solutions, but just hoping some part if resonates so you and others can investigate and experiment efficiently to arrive at the "neutral" base line for your particular wheel.

 

Utilizing Friction / Damping at the DD-wheel base doesn't have to result in loss of detail. Most DD-wheels have enough overhead and response to do multiple effect layers simultaneously without losing detail. Even if detail is affected, increasing the FX level should offset any detail loss.

 

Does this mean that belt driven wheelbases (like my CSW 2.5) need higher FX levels as the friction/inertia/damping is already pretty high to begin with?

 

To me, Damping doesn't feel like a low-pass filter that affects how much high-frequency FX that I feel. Instead I'd say that Damping feels like a kind of extra suspension component felt in the FFB, a bit as if the steering column had shocks, if that makes any sense. It feels more like a push/pull effect than a numbing-down effect. YMMV.

 

FX level is - of course, a user preference factor. In theory though yes, the more Damping / Friction involved (mechanical or other), the more FX may be required to achieve desired result in regard to FFB details.

Keep in mind though, results may vary with different mechanical steering-systems as well as base-software settings. Having the wheel-driver settings as neutral as possible will likely help the game ffb settings in AMS2 to make more sense when making changes. In other words, wheel- driver settings should not conflict with game-ffb settings.

 

That's right, the damping in the game isn't damping as it should be. At least not as it works in all other games, or as damping should logically function. Reiza really needs to change that and point it out.

 

Could you elaborate on that at all please Daniel?
How is the in game dampening not doing what it's designed to do?

 

Unless something has changed (I haven't played AMS2 in a while), or if they fix it with tomorrow's update ? Increased damping currently causes a constant grinding noise in the steering axle (like sand in the gears) and also amplifies vibrations and high-frequency noises. This is the exact opposite of what damping is supposed to do.

Normally functioning damping should remove unwanted high-frequency signals and smooth the signal. This smoothing will improve the driving feel because the vibrations and noise are eliminated. It also ensures a clearer and more consistent force feedback signal.

 

Damping increased to what level? I'm running with 55-60 with no such issues here.