I'm having trouble with understeer

Lower frontal stiffness on car setup. Cars are way too stiff on the front making them understeer like crazy. My Roco 001 baseline setup for instance, I stiffened the rear by 3 clicks and took 6 clicks off the front!

 

You also can move the brake bias more towards the rear, it helps to turn the car into a corner easier.

 

Increasing the steering lock in the setup, I think it will help

 

We need to see it really. Are you thumping the throttle on too early after the load has gone from the front tyres after breaking. If so the load has gone from the front causing understeer. Its modeled and more noticeable in modern racing game engines (iR , RRE, MAdness Engine).

Low Force boost will make the wheel sloppy ( low tyre feel) if below 25 in GT/Stock cars and in the madness engine it will cause odd driving behavior. Set it at 30-50 and work from that( 60+ for modern high aero cars- lower gain if its clipping ). also the gain shouldn't be used to over all FFB power or weight. Use LFB to get lighter or heavier tyre/wheel weight not gain

reference your confusion over FFB questions;
Try and test how much FFB can make your Thrustmaster wheel behave totally different

Car: Ultima GTR

Track Adelaide 1988 version (solo practice session)

Set FFB

Gain 60
LowForce Boost 40
FX 40

Do 5 laps

Go back to pits

Set Lowforce Boost 60

Do 5 laps

See how different the car behaves? Turns and Braking

Now set Gain 75 LFB still 60 FX still 40

Now do 5 laps, See how it effects the way your brain interprets the car moving compared to the feeling from your wheel? Notice how Gain has made the car harder to keep from sticking its backside out over bumps or wheelspins

I have to keep my thrustmaster at gain 60
FX always at 40
then change LFB to 40-60 GT/Saloons
60-75 for Formula 1-3 (modern era)

sometimes some cars are very very heavy so low LFB 30-35 is needed or it gets hard to turn

I always keep my Thrustmaster control panel ALL default so the game can make use of all the settings properly. You dont need to keep spring and damper at 0% in modern era sims in fact in many cases your denying yourself feeling if you do as games that have dynamic spring and dampening built into the FFB effects require your control panel to have it enabled oir it cant make use of the dynamic alterations of modern FFB design

 

I was hoping that it wouldn’t be necessary to change the wheel settings for each car once you got it where you wanted it. I’ve been playing ACC almost exclusively before getting AMS2 and the FFB in that is set-and-forget. The cars themselves give a subtly different feel without having to change the wheel settings all the time.

 

Nothing is certain as its all WIP.

Although car behaviors can really be altered, with my wheel at least, by different settings.

Take the Ultima which ive been loving, and doing my experimenting with.

at 60 LFB and FX 40 when the car wheel spins or goes over a bump mid corner , any power put on to early makes the back end step and its easy to lose the car ( Cadwell Park is my main test track)

However increasing FX to 50 ,the car feels a lot more stable under the same conditions and if increased too far, say 70, I get power under steer making the insane wheel spin the Ultima has much easier to control when booting it out of slower corners but awful slow sped cornering at those high settings ( i settle at 50).
The thing is according to a recent dev post i see on the Steam feed , FX is simply "canned effects" like scrub and engine vibration yet it makes the wheel feel like its more supported compared to 40 or lower

 

I’m struggling to understand how changing the FFB setting can affect the handling of the car. Surely it just changes what you feel through the wheel, not what the car does on the track?

 

What? your ffb settings don't change how a car handles

 

Its weird. If you can try it and see what I mean. Its quite obvious too. High FX makes my wheel more stiffer overall and its much easier to catch a wobble on the Ultima but at high settings slow sharp corners feel like a lot more steering effort and turning is required for the same corner using a much lower FX setting.

 

I'm running a Fanatec. I found that understeer is pretty easy to induce in AMS2 with improper braking. Understeer has been my bane in all sims until I learned it wasn't the sim, tires, down force or suspension as much as my foot on the brake pedal. The tire squeal is a pretty good indicator in AMS2. I turn down the engine sounds and turn up the tire and road sounds so that the sound of the tires is my biggest clue that I'm pushing the tires too hard.

 

Well after seeing recommendations elsewhere to run my control panel with no spring and dampener the FFB in AMS behaves more like its supposed to. It seems spring and dampening in my TM control panel at default (hardware level depending on wheel position and turning speed) was fighting with the in game FFB (software level)

 

I'm experiencing the same understeer. Using a thrustmaster t300 Alcantara and fanatec clubsport v2 pedals. I've gone between AMS 1, the reiza pack in rf2, and AMS2 and just like you I'm battling constant understeer in AMS2. It just feels like trail braking is very difficult in AMS2.

in AMS1 you can feel the front tires bite and rotate the car in as you trailbrake into a turn. It's very difficult for me to achieve this in AMS2. I hope it's just down to a default setup issue. The same cars should not feel so different between all three sims.

 

Same here with understeer, the feeling of car is gone when it happens. Very similar if not same as in PC2. It is physics issue and not ffb.

 

Most of the cars are stiffly sprung. Also, don't ignore castor. Dampers too, bump should always be lower than its partners rebound. And you may be surprised what just one negative click of toe gives ya.

I hope we get tire temps across the carcass in the future, makes getting correct camber settings much easier than just a "green" 'ok' tire

 

It's not setup, it's game physics. You will get the same feeling in PC2.

 

I just did a back-to-back test between PC2 and AMS2 after reading this....they are not the same.
After a few laps on Donington in both titles with the Caterham, throttle oversteer is more pronounced as is the effect of elevation changes on grip, in AMS2.

The understeer at Donington is most noticeable on the down-hill left. Just as the ground drops out from under the front tires, it's turning radius starts to open up. (Understeer) Same thing happens to the rear and the balance comes back to where it started, but at that point the car has already gone wide if no corrective inputs were made.

 

Did you forget the title of this thread? " I'm having trouble with understeer"

 

I got it back again now thank to the latest update.
Settings 50 to 65 gain
LFB 40
0
0
.

 

I've been fine in most cars. Some I have trouble feeling whether I'm under rotating the tyres under braking leading to inconsistent cornering lap to lap. But then I tried the 60's F1 cars and it was really bad in the low speed corners. As soon as the car gets below 60-70kph it's like I've driven into mud and the car just doesn't turn even with no pedal input. I experimented with the setup (open coast diff, arb's, springs, dampers) but nothing improved it. I felt weirdness with the 90's F1 car when it got to low speeds as well. Not understeer but like the grip level suddenly changes a bit.

It's like they're using the old Pacejka model and haven't got the low speed transitions right in some cars.

 

Do you not think this could be about the loss of downforce where the aero/mechanical grip in faster corners becomes purely mechanical grip in slow corners?

But it kind of highlights the problem, I think too many variables mask the problem of terminal understeer. A real race driver could jump between different cars and drive each fast right out of the box because the mechanics have set the car up to be drivable. The driver may not yet be race wining fast, that would take some setup tweaks, but fast enough to get a feel of the car. In AMS2 it seems with each car players are having to start again from scratch and have to scrabble around trying to understand it, is it the controller and settings, or is it the cars setup? This alone makes it a game problem and not a player or setup problem, you'd sack any team that gave you such crappy cars to drive if it was real life.