Locking up brakes, tips for load cell?

if just stomping in with full power is the best way, why do you need loadcells. A button would do the job too. Or the cheapes pedals you can get.
0 = drive
1 = brake
braking is a bit more than just stomp in.

 

What do you guys mean by 'stomping', might be some misinterpretation going on. Some have said something like pressing full for a brief moment, then release gradually as the car slows down (moreso w/ formula cars), not sure w/ GT3 cars. How about w/ the Stock & SuperV8's?

In my opinion, having a load cell and stomping have no connection, as you can stomp (if you mean pressing hard/full on the brakes immediately) on any type of brake, regardless of type. The load cell simply allows you to feel & modulate the release by pressure, rather than by distance pressed on a spring/potentiometer pedal.

So guys, perhaps elaborate a bit more to avoid miscommunication, then perhaps if all are talking about the same thing, then the discussion can proceed.

Personally, I guess some are describing the 'amount of pressure applied' on certain cars easily cause their brakes to lock. Some like the Formula classic G1 I briefly tried earlier, I could lock the brakes at the initial press/stomp if I press too hard, even if I release it immediately. So next try I moved my foot a bit lower to lessen the leverage and found a sweet spot that even 'stomping' in the initial msec, it wouldn't lock. The thing is it's not consistent with other cars, so I'd have to find the right spot for the other cars as well (and for certain corners as well). Anyway, just cited an example.

 

You stomp it during high speed for a split second in high downforce cars.
"Stomp it" is how for example Hamilton describes it and how it appears on real F1 telemetry sheets.
After that split second you need the loadcell for easier .

 

Yeah, to me stomping on the brake just means getting to maximum pressure as quickly as possible without locking up. Muscle memory will allow you to do that per car / track / weather / etc. I won't "consciously" push the brake harder and harder till I feel the wheels locking and then back off a bit, I'll stomp and then back off whilst trail braking.

Couple of telemetry examples (Brake pressure % v time):
Car with lots of down force allowing 100% braking but needing to reduce pressure once down force reduces followed by trail braking.


Minimal / no down force:


Both examples I would consider stomping due to the speed to get to peak braking pressure, even though the second one only goes to ~90%.

As a load cell pedal has no back stop like a potentiometer based pedal, you only ever have the pressure feedback for how hard you are braking. When you hit the potentiometer pedal backstop you know instantly you've hit max. With the load cell you tune the max braking pressure to be very heavy and hard to reach 100% so that when you need that you do have to stomp on it. Well, that's the way I have mine setup anyway.

Having said all that, there are some cars where it feels they lock up at unnaturally low brake pressure. Off the top of my head the Formula Vintage and Ultima GTR are in this class.

 

I'm not sure if you don't know what "stomping the brakes" means or if you think iracing style of braking is how it actually works, where you have to be gentle with the brakes, because that's not how it's at all.

 

That is just down to the default brake bias I'd guess. I run 55 BB and actually increased the brake pressure in setup (where I would tend to use default mostly.) IIRC default BB is 60 or even further forwards than that.

 

As others have said, in high downforce cars high brake pressure (stomp) is needed at the initial braking point. As the car quickly slows, it will lose downforce and it will become ‘lighter’ requiring significantly less brake pressure to stop the car, so drivers progressively lessen the brake pressure.

All corners are not the same though, while turn 1 in Monza may require 100% brake force initially, turn 1 at the Red Bull Ring will require far less initial pressure. Where a load cell is valuable is when approaching these different corners, the stomp you do doesn’t always have to be a 100% stomp

 

Yeah, I've been altering the brake balance and pressure on a few cars as in general it seems to far forwards by default. Those two cars in particular even with setup tweaks do not seem quite right though.

 

I know a lot of people are having issues with brakes locking up easily in AMS2. Without that issue I would say if anything the car is easy to stop compared to similar cars in AC for example, I've had no dramas under braking at all, even in the wet. Hopefully they can figure out what is causing the issues for certain hardware or software in the not too distant future!

Talking of brakes I've been wondering if brake fade is a thing in AMS2, does anyone know?

 

You're just not pushing hard enough then!

Not having any of those issues myself, just feel some of the cars are a bit unbalanced, but I'm sure they will sort it out if that is the case and not me being just funny.

I have heard of peoples brakes disintegrating after sounding funny, but not actual brake fade.

 

What BB do you use for the Ultima Race, and Brake Force? In your previous post, you also mentioned 'increasing' brake force, raised it higher from 90?

Finding optimal BB too every time I race, and sometimes if I go too low (towards rear), some fun is added when the rear sways during braking.

 

Must push harder in future then

Yeah I had the brakes fail in the F Vintage Gen1 at Kyalami T1 before. I think it is a random failure at the moment.

I haven't tried that car I'm afraid, it sounds like you have already explored more rear bias

 

I've found 56/44 and 75% pressure works well for the Ultima GTR Race.

 

Will try that again...though I remember going at only 57/43 when I already had those rear drift ....and I think I still have pressure at 85%. Any suggestions for reducing understeer, with the limited setup options?

 

Thought I was getting a feeling of déjà vu For that setting I maxed out the front and rear down force too. I've also got buttons mapped for bb change so do sometimes set it more towards the front as you're right about the rear being a bit loose.

I haven't really explored the setup past that, but maybe try decreasing the front ARB stiffness as it looks a bit high. I had a very quick play and tried just generally softening up the front a bit:



And that seems to help (around Interlagos). Haven't touched geometry though. There may be something there that can help with the turn in. I think the understeer is just the nature of mid-rear engine cars though. Need to get them rotated early and power out.

ETA: Tried a race against the AI with those settings and definitely improved over what I managed before. With AI strength 100% and aggression 60% and 10 lap race finished 5th and 0.1s off fastest lap. First 5 laps just seem to only be able to keep pace, but as tyre wear kicks in a bit in the last 5 laps I can start making up places.

 

Reviving this old thread because I constantly have tyre lockups with my Heusinkveld Sprints if I don't lower the output in the HE SmartControl software to 14%(!). I made this video to explain what happens:

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Is it a bug or am I doing something wrong? All tips are welcome. Cheers!

 

I too have brake lock problems, I just lower the pressure and it helps, but still feels a bit weird, I am in no way "stomping" on the brakes at all and stil they lock up. I have to kinda do like Dan Gurney did with his chicken **** brake style, start with a tap on the brakes then apply more pressure and trail brake. Using the Fanatec Clubsport V3.

 

I did it by reducing the output in the brake pedal software, but to me that doesn't feel right because you're not using what the pedal is capable of in terms of 'resolution'. Brake pressure in the car setup is not always available, for instance when you do default setup races.

 

I had the same issue before. Did you calibrate them ingame too? Going to max force you want to use?

 

the problem with the locking brakes was relevant until about a year ago.
Did you pause a very long time with AMS2 and now came back?
If yes, you should delete your AMS2 folder in documents and start from scratch.