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Race Specific Setups

Discussion in 'Automobilista 2 - General Discussion' started by steelreserv, Dec 6, 2020.

  1. Apex

    Apex Active Member

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    I've set steering lock to 24.0 deg. Brake bias is pretty even, the ducts fully open and I've increased the tyre pressure slightly. This all helped a bit, but I'm still in the yellow zone after like ten laps and the crew chief is not at all pleased with me.

    Maybe I just need to adapt to a different driving style and be smoother. I don't have this issue with the old-school, more sliding cars.
     
  2. azaris

    azaris Well-Known Member AMS2 Club Member

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    How many degrees does it show when you calibrate your wheel? Or are you driving with a controller?
     
  3. Apex

    Apex Active Member

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    900 degrees (G29).
     
  4. TexasSpecial

    TexasSpecial Member

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    I just found this thread: are the links on the front page updated to 1.3.7 or are they in the thread somewhere?
     
  5. CrimsonEminence

    CrimsonEminence Custom Title Staff Member AMS2 Club Member

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    Many of the builds will be rather outdated at this point in time, but the good news is that Steel is actually working on the default setups for AMS2 at this point in time (and also on important elements of the tires) so the default builds that fit the revised physics are done by the same guy and you already get them out of the box.

    When it comes to explanations on how some adjustments might change car dynamics, it's of course still valid.

    I'm QAing each build that comes through aswell, i can confidently confirm, they are far superior to the state, many of the cars were in, even when the custom builds were made, he is doing a great job with it.

    Best is, to wait for further tire carcass revisions being released, because they're also accompanied by customized setup adjustments.
     
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  6. Danielkart

    Danielkart Well-Known Member

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    Wow, tolle Arbeit aus Stahl, weil man nicht mehr viel rumschrauben muss. Perfekt:)
     
  7. sillib

    sillib New Member

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    @steelreserv
    First and most important... thank you for all your hard work, your vision and dedication to this sim through the years.
    It always fascinated me how to setup a car, and now that i m able to spend some more time on this sim that is starting to reach a certain point of development i d like to come forward and ask some basic questions.
    I ve watched your videos and thank you for making them..
    Since the time you ve made the onces explaining all of the setup tabs, many updates and developments have taken place, so i d like to know if some basic parts are still handled the same way.
    Since i m starting from the beggining i d like to know if the tire temps IMO, still operate in the same window as explained 5 - 7 on the fronts and 3 - 5 on the rears, or if this window is smaller now.
    Also if it s better adviced to start by adjusting the ride hight and the rake after finding the optimal temp spread and the camber, or is the rake cosidered more or just as an aero feature. Should the ride height always be revisited after any setup change or is it handled to be adjusted automatically by the game calculations?
    I do hope i make sence... trying to start slowly and see where that gets me... right in the abyss I guess!!!
    Thank you so much.

    Edit. I m talking about GT3 cars.
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2022
  8. steelreserv

    steelreserv Well-Known Member Staff Member AMS2 Club Member

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    I’m glad to hear you are interested in setups. Its certainly what drew me to AMS2 and all of the principles of setup work are the same as they were before. IMO AMS2 could be the best sim platform to learn them too, as ASM2 mimics what occurs in real life, so you don’t have to rely on something like an “AMS2 setup guide”, you can just read about how real life car mechanics work and you are good to go.

    That being said, camber work is usually one of the areas people start to explore first. With regards to camber, 5-7 front is fine and I would say 3-4 for a GT car is better. (0-2 for open wheelers) Back in the day, prior to oez’s diff work, 5 was sometimes helpful for more stability. Its not needed so much today though.

    If you can tune the tires into those windows, its a good place to start working on other things for handling characteristics you may prefer.

    Ride heights are some of the more difficult things to tune because they have effects in the aero side of things as well as mechanical. So the first thing you need to do is figure out the car’s handling at low speed, and high speed. If you experience understeer in both, adding rake should help. If you have understeer at low speed, but not high speed. Best keep rake as it is and try to solve it on the mechanical side with arb, for example. If the car is fine at low speed, but understeers at high speed, you should reduce rear wing and add rake as sort of an “in between” between wing settings. But, you will definitely need to induce understeer on the mechanical side if the car becomes a handful at lower speeds.

    In summary, aero adjustments for aero issues that show up at high speed. Mechanical adjustments for mechanical grip which is more noticeable at lower speeds. Ride heights are aero and mechanical, so a change in one area might need an offset in the other.

    Once this is done, you can revisit camber and toe for minor handling characteristics, in other words, a little extra turn or a little bit less based on feel. Once you’ve reached a place of optimized grip, use camber to make minor grip adjustments to help you through the corner.
     
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  9. sndb

    sndb New Member

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    Having just stumbled across the Steelcast YT channel last weekend, I can't say how thrilled I am to learn that he's now working internally continuing work on the AMS2 setup and vehicle tuning.

    Over the past couple months AMS2--along with a T300 & my first VR headset--has managed to command & retain my interest, rekindling a love for race sims lost to me since early the 2000s.

    So that said, a huge "thank you" to you both and all the other folks working behind the scenes to bring this steady churn of improvements and polish to AMS2 with a level of enthusiasm and dedication that continues to impress, but I digress...

    So I had noticed some, possibly even the majority of AMS2 vehicles I've driven so far feel pretty well "on-point" driven with default setups, but some just feel like they're wallowing about with excessive chassis movement, or others that feel like they're on an ice rink.

    So since finding the channel, I've been working my way through the custom defaults series focusing on some favorites (GT1, GTE, P[#],Classic BMW/Porsche) and experiencing some notable improvements in some areas despite the deprecated setup specifics featured in the videos. So I was wondering if it would be at all possible to share a progress list of some sort for which cars have had their default setups reworked. I'd hate to be wading into a reworked car and messing around where it has already been re-tuned per the new tire models. Or can we presume that are car with a major physics or tire model update in the patch-notes has also had it's default setup reworked?

    Anyhow, sorry about the wall of text and thanks again for all the hard work on what seems to be a never-ending stream great updates!
     
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  10. steelreserv

    steelreserv Well-Known Member Staff Member AMS2 Club Member

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    Thanks for the kind words!
    At this point all of the default setups in the game have been adjusted and with the forthcoming update, some of the cars will have further adjustments all in preparation for the moratorium on monthly resets.

    As far as my channel is concerned, sadly, the provided setups aren’t current any longer. The good news is any adjustments have simply been incorporated into the game instead! Haha. The value in those videos is the methodology of approaching setups in the event a default setup is insufficient at a particular track or set of conditions.

    If I were you, id feel free to work on cars you like, but when you are done, make sure to screenshot the setup pages and save them. After the defaults are reset upon the update, you can simply make the adjustments to the setups. Its a cumbersome process I am fully aware of, but in a few weeks time you are not going need to worry about losing setup work as any adjustments in this area will be reserved for major updates only.
     
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  11. sillib

    sillib New Member

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    Mate i dan t thank you enough for all this!!!
    It covers so many aspects and connects so many dots in just a few words.
    Gives me a reall boost to dive into all this!!
    Cheers!!
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2022
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  12. hb22

    hb22 Member

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    Hi Steel thanks for your work on the YouTube channel and now on the game!

    I'm trying to follow along with your videos but I have found that often with the default setup my rear tyre temps show no difference IMO and reducing camber even to the max doesn't change this. I've seen this with a couple of different cars. Are the videos still valid since the new updates? Thanks again!
     
  13. steelreserv

    steelreserv Well-Known Member Staff Member AMS2 Club Member

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    Thanks! The guides are still valid, yes. IMO camber on the rear can be difficult to obtain depending on the car and track, open wheelers like a flatter IMO heat distribution for example. Think of the guides as guides and not hard line “rules”. With camber especially, its important to feel how the car behaves, whether the change is something you like or don’t like.
     
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  14. LeakyValve

    LeakyValve New Member

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    Kinda new-ish to all of AMS2. Mainly got into it as hopefully a better version car wise for the new F1 cars. I think they are way more manageable.
    Just finished watching the set up series. Gonna see what I can do to put into those Formula Ultimate Gen 2s

    Great work Steel
     
  15. Jugulador

    Jugulador Well-Known Member

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    How does AMS2 work with anti-Ackermann setups? I was never well succeeded using this and always have to go back to negative toe-in to have the fastest times, specially with modern F1 cars. Not only that, even the default setups of modern F1 cars, contraire to reality, don't use anti-Ackermann. Some of the fastest LB lap times use sploit-level of toe-out on front wheels, as if "the more the merrier".

    Cheers!
     
  16. racezilla

    racezilla Member AMS2 Club Member

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    I don't think think it's possible to change Ackermann steering geometry in AMS2. I think you might be confusing that with front static toe. They are not the same thing.
     
  17. Jugulador

    Jugulador Well-Known Member

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    Right you are, but them, how does AMS2 work it?
     
  18. kkdrummer

    kkdrummer Well-Known Member AMS2 Club Member

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    He is back!
     
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  19. fireballr18

    fireballr18 Well-Known Member AMS2 Club Member

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    Also got hooked by this channel and the work @steelreserv put into it. Never done really much in terms of setups (laziness and also never understood how to approach properly tbh.) but since yesterday I run lap after lap with the GT1 Porsche at Daytona and juggling for tweaks.
    By default the original Low Downforce setup for this car leads to bottoming a lot at the steep curves. It's a special challenge I think.
    If you already tested this and/or feel motivated to do a setup incl. explanations why this does it for you @steelreserv it would be amazing to see. It already helped me a lot and I will rummage through the videos to learn more about it. Thanks :)
     
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  20. steelreserv

    steelreserv Well-Known Member Staff Member AMS2 Club Member

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    The setup videos are by now largely irrelevant. Hopefully, the process and explanation is still helpful.

    The Daytona banking presents a unique challenge to most default setups for high aero cars, as the loading of the right side causes extreme suspension and tire deflection.

    You;ll have to develop a keen eye to be able to distinguish between the two. Using the UI HUD while banking, if the RH appears to reduce more than the "travel" indicator, that means the tires are deflecting to make up the difference. Check that your pressures are proper, stiffen the springs (symmetrically if you are driving the road course, asymmetrical springs are ok for just the oval) and raising the ride heights are the options available to you.

    Note, some scraping is ok. If the car is getting bent out of shape though, thats a problem. The adjustments above WILL effect the road course though.
     
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