Same old .....

Are you sure? Higher tire pressures on the cars I drive make the cars nearly undriveable. It's absolutely faster in a straight line, but it's a nightmare to keep it on the road.

 

With the F Retro or F-Vintage (most of my time is in those) lowering the pressures makes the cars noticeably easier to drive, and noticeably slower. I probably spend at least 75 percent of my time in TT mode just because I find it to be good practice. The F-Retros at 1.5 bar are undriveable. Same with low downforce... I did have a pretty good lap at Imola 72 with the df turned really low and the pressure bumped up a little (after I discovered how much quicker high pressures were at Spielberg 75 or whatever year it is), but it was a ragged edge, 10 tries to get one clean lap kinda lap, and even that one probably has another second in it if you can hang onto it, but it was a challenge for sure. I definitely didnt feel like I was "cheating" at all on that one. Especially since I kept having to bring the tire pressure back down to be able to control it.

 

Default seems fine in the F Retro's, I havent tried higher but I have gone lower and I also found it slower. I go 1 click down on the fronts sometimes but for no real reason, just for the love of clicking stuff. IIRC the RL driver Maser V6 was talking to said never beyond 18psi IRL so I tried that and it was too slow. Seems like 18psi would be better for the tyres coming alive within a couple of laps but you lose too much straight line speed.

 

I've noticed that many of the default setups are shipped with way to low pressures. Found that the Ginetta GT4 was at least 0.15 bar to low. That has a huge impact on handling.
Tire pressures are always the first thing I sort when setting up a car, no point in adjusting springs and dampers if the important contact patch is out wack. And you want an omi spread between 8 and 10 degrees.

 

I agree, but we need to know what those pressures or the actual preferred range of pressures. Do teams in real life have to guess tyre pressures and go out on track and trial and error until they get them correct?

 

Try Bathurst or Speilburg GT4 or anty of the P classes please.

 

Since the tire model is adopted from pc2, which had a general correct pressure of 1.8 bar for most cars, I use that as a starting point. Works for most tin tops

 

Depends, you can run higher pressures on less dependant aero cars, and get away with really low pressures on cars that depend on aero but once removed.

 

Most of the times i've run are Default setups, but i was just doing some testing on TT with a few different setups.
I found that you can get away with 0 aero/camber/toe and very high or very low tyres pressures, i'm talking maxed out/min.( depends on aero dependant or not)
Only on TT yes the car is not easy to drive, and will not suit alot of drivers, but if mastered can achieve crazy results.
In the case of GT4 or even P1 from Default up to 3 seconds.
Same conditions, just crazy and shouldn't be attainable really, maybe 1 second.
For example if you run Speilberg GT4 Default the car feels great to me, then load your ghost and apply the settings, you can pull 1 second on each straight, but at no cost to your cornering speed.

 

I love the game and want it to do well, but i'm just being honest with the setup issue i believe can be exploited but not by everyone.
I accept that a few tenths can and should be achieved with extreme settings, but at the cost of lower cornering speeds, which in turn will balance out the overall lap times.
Overall though i just want it to be a more realistic/balanced game.
It also keeps TT a lot closer/competitive without the extremes.

 

I have watched a lot of PC2 set-up videos for hot-lapping and never come across these exploits. So out of curiosity I downloaded the WR setups for several cars for Brands Hatch GP. The Porsche 911 GT3 R, the Ginetta G55 GT4 and the Toyota TS50, all by different hot-lappers.

None had all the aero removed. None had all the camber removed. None had all the toe removed. I'm not sure what you mean by "break the tyre pressures/anti-roll bars" so its hard to comment on these but the arb settings were not far from the defaults.

I have no idea what exploits work for AMS2 but if all the above work for AMS2 its not because they are carried across from PC2.

 

It's not always 0 but basically minimum/what the cars allows.
Set a time in Default/suits your style, then put all of the above settings to min allowed and then race your previous ghost, watch as it disappears.
It used to be in Pcars 1 at the start of the games release, and everything had to be reset then.
Similar to Rfactor 2 tuning aswell.
Just a bit of a deal breaker but still enjoying the game so far.