Vintage formulas drivability

Thanks for your answer Renato. I understand how much work it takes to maintain the competition between different cars and try to keep it historically accurate at the same time.

 

It would be nice to see Gen 1 slower than Gen 2 before 1.0 also.

 

Are they really faster? I guess the downforce slows em down enough on the straight, and Im guessing they make the same power right now. Not sure what the power improvements year over year were in 1967, but they may have been fairly drastic considering 67 was really the first year everyone had a 3 liter engine ready. Year 2 revisions may have been pretty big leaps.

 

hi,
I think vintage cars are now good to drive in dry conditions but when there's a single drop coming down from sky it's more or less undriveable even the track is still dry. I don't think this is right. It feels like driving on a wet concrete floor with slick tires (a wet concrete is very very very slippery). If there's a thunderstorm and the track is flooded, then it may be right.

 

Anyone got an "idiots guide" to tuning mid corner snap out of the steering?

 

What is mid corner snap? I have gotten mine tweaked so the back end slides all over the place to counter the corner entry understeer.

 

I would wager that because of the understeer, he/she probably has the steering cranked. When the car either scrubs off speed or he/she presses the throttle, the car probably snap oversteers.

 

"He" does. "He" gets best results steering with the pedals and a loose rear, and there is a mid corner point where applied steering lock does sometimes unload most dramatically for me and 'snaps' or jerks to opposite lock. I find that anticipating this and adjusting steering in advance of the snap seems to be the answer. But I'd also read in tuning discussions elsewhere (that were way over may head) that this behavior mid corner can be related to differential tuning set-up. Just wondering if there were any simple changes that could be made other than me simply learning to drive better.

And thanks Mahjik, good Sir/Madam, for providing the opportunity to clarify.

 

im not an expert on the diff settings, but that’s a good observation. I’m going to have to go play with that... I think that would be the preload that affects how aggressively it shifts from coast to power settings...

 

Buddy I have no idea , That's why I need the idiot's guide. But this is the general area that I had been wondering about. I'm a bit of a 1960's F1 fan and I spend alot of time in the AC L49 and the RF2 BT20. I just love the G1M1 and find AMS2 really good for learning in and pushing the edge. But of late I've been wrestling with this snap thing. Eg, Last corner at Kylami Historic - this one is really easy for me to do the snappy thing during the mid corner sustained power slide that that corner is for me.

 

I

I cannot figure out how people are so fast at kyalami yet. I’m way off the pace on the time trial leaderboards. I’ve tried their setups and some of them are just undriveable, but I can tell they’re fast. It’s kind of a pain to compare setups I’ve noticed. I think it’s really popular because It was In GPL, so it has the most “competition” in that class.

And I absolutely lose tons of time in the last corner. It’s so important to get on the power as early as possible.

 

Yes. Best times for Kyalami are hard to get one's head around. Just a little bit on the alien side.
I do wish they would re-set the leaderboards. I have old TT times up from old EA builds which I cannot beat still, even though I've been practicing for weeks and shaved seconds off recently. I'm sure the same suspect names will still appear at the top when the Boards no longer show outdated best times for old physics models etc.
Still totally loving this G1M1 car to drive and feel like I'm growing into it. I'm tempted to tinker with one of the custom FFBs next. Taking the AC L49 out this morning I really noticed and appreciated tire scrub feedback missing in the G1M1. Perhaps more FFB info - better drivey?

 

Could be the rather rev dependant powerband? Not much happens until you get high in the rpm range then you get sudden power.

 

This is all the data about engines I found. Some data still miss.

There are two interesting things to add to the equation, car weight and fuel consumption.

These are two interesting quotes from different articles.

Weight of the early cars, at Monza 1966

Power versus weight

Engines details

 

For the vintage cars is there any advice which kind of LSD to use or which do you prefer?
I have problems to decide which to use because sometimes it feels with the cluthed, sometimes with the geared better, but maybe it's depending on my own day condition

 

Here is a list of the 1966/1968 cars that brings an idea about their size, weight and wheel track arrangement.

 

I hope at least that they will be controllable like in AC the L49. I think its still not there yet. The Ferrari 312 was more tricky to race for me for some reason.

 

The latest update to the F-Vintage has solved all complaints for me.

 

The cars of the day used a Salisbury LSD. I prefer to use the Carroll Smith 45/85 with 2 clutches (as the setting won't go down to 1). The default 80/50 just doesn't do it for me.

Is that a delight to look forward to in 9.7 or are you still talking about 9.6.1?

 

0.9.7