Vintage formulas drivability

I made some skins for the Gen2 Model1, you could find then at RD forum.

 

Feels like they're slightly down on power, but a little up on grip. It feels pretty good now, I gotta admit. I cant get within a second of some of my old times. I cant with the Formula V12 either, so maybe it's a global thing.

 

For the real thing,give yourself time about 6 minutes:
Very useful and informative!

 

They certainly don't require a light touch in AMS 2

 

I'm really liking where the G1M1 is at now and look forward to learning to improve my set-up. But the biggest challenge for me is maintaining the light touch. I'm about to step up to Fanatec gear from my base line TM rig (subject to the whims of the back-order gods). For me right now, the slightest lapse of concentration, leading to a ragged accelerator or brake input, will see me off. I can't help but feel that better gear is going to be a big help in getting the most out of the Vintage cars and maintaining that essential light touch. I bloody hope so 'cause it costs an arm and a leg.

 

The light touch was for the 1.5 litre Lotus 25. The 49 had much bigger tyres and twice the engine.

 

I been doing lot of races with both GEN1 and 2. About tires, it look like they work better at 1.55 bars of pressure. To reach that pressure on the race, you have to start at 1.30 - 1.35 bars at some tracks or even lower.

Tires cool down at hight speed faster than at low speed, the lower is the speed of the track the higher is the resultant pressure after some laps.

 

The assumption they should or could only be driven as tail out wild beasts is no longer valid after the recent changes, default setup is neutral but slow, but now it's much easier to dial in a setup and achieve your desired result because the cars now respond as you'd expect to the grip levels.

A case in point stems from the Lotus 25 video posted above. Clark copied Moss in braking late with some initial trail braking, this required a car with far more understeer than people assume was the case. It's actually a slower way into the corner because of the understeer, however the late braking, then late apex, and then the ability to get the power on early and drift out of the corner made the overall corner speed greater. And of course being on the throttle earlier made the speed down the straight faster. It was the classic 'slower in and faster out' approach taught at race schools for so long, and it's not outdated, two modern drivers who favour it are Vettel and Alonso and it's often associated with a smooth but fast driver. It's worth trying in Time Trial mode if you have a comparable ghost driver who has their car set up for oversteer, set yours up for understeer, slower in, late apex, earlier throttle and fast out and you'll most likely pass them while they are still struggling to get the power down on exit.

 

That's up to 19.5 PSI. Higher than I've been running. Thanks I'll try it.

I've also been wondering if it was in relation to these sorts of cars that I recall it said that low fuel/weight states could mean more difficult handling, and if low fuel may lead to slower lap times?

 

As the corner weights of the car are generally adjusted with both the weight of the driver on board and an average weight of fuel it would be logical that you can't just take out fuel for a hot lap because the suspension geometry and spring rates then change as well. I don't know if or how well this is modeled in the game, to me it doesn't seem to make much difference to the feel of the car whether it is full or not, only that 'full' is slower.

 

I just have to chime in...

I absolutely love how these cars drive now. I had my reservations about some parts of it at first, but they've got a lot of it sorted. Who knows how authentic it is, but they feel great. A lot of the rally style driving I was doing before is no longer applicable. You really have to get it right, but it's fun at the same time.

 

I been trying to do race at Donington with the GEN1M1 car, but after 3 laps brakes went on fire over 700ºC.

I tried reducing the brake pressure down to 85% but the problem remains even with full open ducts.

Has anybody tried this car for several laps at Donington?

 

More about tires temp/pressure. Doing some laps at Adelaide it's noticeable how tires get pressure (as in other slow tracks). After I spun the car, I decided to do some donuts to release some driving frustration, but for my surprise the rear tires presure went down from 1.7 to 1.6 bars while tires were on fire.

The relation beetwing tire friction and temperature doesn't seem to be as important as the heat trenfered from the track to the tires. Or maybe the heat transfer from/to the tires/track is too fast.

 

I didn’t notice a brake problem at Donnington, but that was just me. Did a 15 lap race. There were times they were hot since there’s the chicane and two hairpins but it cooled back down every lap for me.


I do feel like the tire pressures act strangely, they seem to get really high sometimes.

 

About brake temp, I'm using 80% of pressure now, with that amount the car brakes well, and disk temp reaches 700 as max. However, I post all this information here just in case devs want to made some changes.

 

What about heat transferred from the brakes into the wheels, this also increases tyre pressure.

 

Yes, brakes could add some heat transfer, but brakes warm up more at front, and tire pressure is always higher at the rear.

 

Since v1.0 the Vintage G1 cars feel really good. The change on the engine torque made them really nice to drive, with more driving and less surviving.

The rise of the tire pressure while on track is still there as before, after driving 5 or 6 laps tire pressure reachs 1.62-1.62 bars and all change for bad. The slower the track, the pressure increase faster.

That transfer of heat/pressure and the speed of the dispesal back to the track seems to be the key of this behaviour.

 

This post is not about drivability, but it's about Vintage cars anyway.

I assume that the 3D model of the v12 on the Vintage M2 car (aka Eagle) is the same as the one at the Retro v12 car.

It would be great to have an option to remove the engine cover and be able to see the engine. In real life that cover was used only on the early races (1966) and then it was kept unused.


Eagle at Monza 67


Eagle in 1968


Retro v12 without the air intake (after a crash) showing the beautiful v12 3D model

 

Hi all,
I did some testing with vintage G2 at Brands Hatch.
Stupidly it rained. I'm a fan of racing in rain but not with these cars. For me, their behavior is unrealistic and so the cars are undriveable.
But to my suprise I did another experience:
The car has been driveable. With enough speed full throttle was possible on the straights. I could take corners faster than I thought.
What happened with these cars? New tire physics?
Or was it just me because I used softer springs and dampers (in earlier times I often used middle hard)?