Wheel hard pulling to the right, multiple users affected

yes, you can clearly hear it also in the two timestamps in the video i've posted above (which is gameplay from me).

 

I have the impression the issue occurs on cars that send out a more forceful FFB signal yes. Makes sense too; the more the FFB is working and giving that damper like feedback the more likely you'll have this sudden overload making the wheel go crazy.

 

I have experienced this issue twice now after having purchased the game on January 4, 2021. I stumbled upon this thread and was very happy to see that others have experienced the issue (although, obviously not happy that such a severe bug exists).

Both occurrences of this issue on my end have been while driving the Mercedes Benz CLK LM. The first occurrence happened on the Nürburgring Nordschleife, and the second occurrence on the Silverstone Historic 2001 track on Sunday, February 14.

My wheel hardware:
Fanatec Clubsport Wheelbase V2.5
Fanatec CSL Elite Wheel WRC

 

Mine has been set to custom, actually.

 

Is this issue still a thing? I dont get pulling of the wheel, but when it happens the Fanatec DD wheel suddenly feels very heavy to turn like high damping but not exactly, and FFB lost most of the detail. It feels like a im turning the wheel through heavy viscous fluid and it has no spring to it.
The fix is only return to the in-race menu by pressing Esc and then clicking Resume. It works both in single and multiplayer to fix it. Maybe the comments about having to restarting and changing profiles is because different wheel may not turn off when you press Esc?

I use Default + and have been getting it every now and then for a while once i turned up FFB to a higher level, esp Force Intensity in Fanalab as i had it lower before it started to happen.

It is defeinitely not at clipping level - far from it but seems to happen in cars where there is sustained high FFB and damping, and stuff, like faster higher downforce cars, prototypes or just cars with heavy steering. Because the forces constantly change and increase to more mid corner.

IT happens often enough that is a huge problem and i will need to try and lower FFB to see if it fixes it, which i think it will as my FFB in multiplayer is normally lower than Singleplayer (as longer races and not hotlapping etc), and it has only happened in multiplayer once.


I have contacted Fanatec support and done things to try but i still get it and think it could be AMS2 game related but will need to know if anybody else has this issue

IF its due to game i think it needs to be fixed fast, as it isnt good to have to lower FFB or Force Intensity a lot to prevent this problem which can happen in many cars in the game as they have strong FFB in default+.

It still happens if my wheel is set at 75% of max FFB strength available, significant reduction in car FFB, and in game gain at 45 only and damping is quite high however.


Edit: is the wheel going "limp" the same as my issue? There is a bit of FFB left and the wheel is heavy and viscous so wondering if thats what it meant by loss of FFB and limp. Is it a protection?

(issue here was ok so deleted this part)

 

Answers to the Qs. Your reply is much appreciated

1)

Are you using RC (AMS2 release candidate)?
Yes, but this has happened for few months on and off there were periods where it didnt happen much and recently mor again. Not sure if its game or problem with my wheel base (DD1)​

2)

Wheel going into some sort of damping-like resistance and only return to pits resolves it?
Yes dampign like resistance with much reduced FFB. No spring. Still works but laps compromised a lot. It doenst have anything to do with pits right now.
It's not going into pits, but simply pressing Esc to bring up the menu and clicking "Resume" (not clicking reutrn to pits) while car is still in track or still moving even as it seems to reset FFB.
I think alt tabbing works too.
Today when it happened, going into Reverse gear fixed it somehow. Is this game connected? Simply stopping the car with brakes and going neutral doenst fix it.
​

3)

Did you have it go limp? If you are on RC, it will go limp if subsantial damage happens to tires/wheel (or they fall off / detach)
Not limp i guess, but simply what i described with the damping viscous feel. It usually occurs in period of high ffb where lot of damping and FFB, and then i find it just remains very "damped" and cant turn it properly.
Eg, happens after i brake into and go out of a corner finding it has changed.
The car is not damaged at all, tires not worn either.

This is not placebo and is very easily noticeable and i even drive a lap more to see if it goes away and it doesnt. instant change once i press Esc and the Resume. (my car is still same spot and hasnt gone to pits or anything)​

4)

Was it heavy while you were in menu (in pits, on track)?

Regarding the FFB slider, sorry it was my mistake as maybe i wasnt accustomed to the DPi car being so strong FFB as i changed some FFB since i last used the car.
I now know it only got lighter because i decreased the FFB settings in Fanalab before going to try it again in another session,
I have tested it and found this to be true and consistent.​

5)

Post your system spec, including wheelbase / rim.
Motherboard ASUS Prime B550 MK
Windows 11
DD1 with Clubsport V2 universal Hub and R300 Fanatec RIM
F-PRO with the Podium hub.

The issue has happened with both wheels/rims. So again im asking fanatec support if its my wheel base problem but they didnt know yet. What do you think?
​

6)

With odd issues like yours, sometimes changing USB port used helps. On my system (B450 mainboard, Ryzen 2600 - i can't use some USB ports as it tends to loose the wheel).

I can try diff USB ports to see if it happens again, but when the FFB goes weird, the wheel still works to move and turn the car. Buttons still work etc. just the FFB becomes strange.

Do you think that could still be a USB port issue in that case?

edit: formatting
​

 

Edit: As i did change the USB port i use for the wheelbase recently (not sure exactly when, but it could coincide with updating to RC too), I took your advice and used another USB port. Will try it for longer to see if issue still happens.
But i tested it with a car which had the problem before (P2 Duratec) and purposely made In game damping max at 100 with decent FFB. In about 10 min of laps in track with lot of turns it did not have the issue which is a good sign. The heavy damping functioned correctly when i think normally it would easily have caused issues.


Looking back at email records to Fanatec support, i actually had this problem stop around September 14 when i reinstalled Fanatec DD1 firmware, it seemed to help and didnt get it for a while.

And then it started happening again literally on the same day that i updated to the RC on November 4, in the race immediately after i updated i had the issue and then I sent another email to Fanatec support.

Could this be from FFB being udpated in the RC. In the notes i found on RD:

• FFB: Fixed for potential hard pull in FFB with new lock stops implementation; Removed lockstop code from them as this is now handled outside of scripts
• FFB: Added new Functions for use in FFB script, adjusted Default & Default+ profiles to improve lockstops, (now acting outside of usable steering range)

So there is some issue that was just fixed?

Also wanted to ask, after updating to RC - the FFB felt noticeably heavier than before for Default+, especially mid corner. And it also seems the oscillations on the straights have reduced significantly in the cars i've tried. Is this something new with the RC?

 

Still have to commend you guys for that, didn't experience this wheel pulling in a long time anymore (so fixed indeed), and when we reported it on the SMS forum back in the PC2 days they never came up with a fix.

 

Im pretty sure the wheel is still in sync as ive had it in VR as well as screen and would have noticed if it wasnt in sync in VR. Telemetry is off already to used fanalab's telemetry.

SEN is all in AUTO in tuning setups

So far it hasnt happened again yet. So im thinking it well could be the USB port that i changed around the same time it started happening again.

Reinstalled same firmware, yes.

Thanks for the info on the RC

 

Just FYI, I have started having this same issue with my Moza R9 running cerain high FFB cars (DPI) on certain turns I get massive clipping. Even when running my wheel at 30% FFB. I will also try using a different USB port and see if that helps. I don't have this in any other sim though.

 

I am running SC2 Pro. I occasionally get a random sudden full lock to bump stop to one side (usually left). It happens during cornering. The wheel just decides to slam to one side and I have to reset game and device. The last time this happened the game sound also crashed. I have submitted a support ticket to Granite Devices, but maybe this is an AMS2 specific error that occurs?

 

I would also get that sudden jerk going left or right? at random times. really catches you off guard. If I turn off UDP and Shared Memory, The problem seems to go away. But some apps using this would no longer work.. CrewChief ect..

 

Oh interesting! I do use crew chief and have UDP/Shared Memory at play. Ok that is something to look into. Thanks!

 

Have this bug again with latest release candidate. All over sudden, wheel pulls to the right.

i7-11700KF @ 3.60GHz
32 GB RAM
NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080
Win 10
Wheel: Thrustmaster TS XW Racer
Default/Default+/Custom FFB (occurs in all of them)

Does not happen in any other title than AMS 2.

 

Started all over sudden - wheel went amok to the right. Then it stays there and I did not dare to turn it back to center by force, afraid of ruining it.
When you leave the game and restart, it is ok again, but you have a good chance that it will happen again quite soon after.
Like in early releases of the game, it can happen after some minutes of playing, the other time after some hours. Next time, it does not happen at all.

I use the standard settings in TM- software, but without spring and damping. Boost option is off, autocentering by game.

Ingame, I have set the gain just to 70-75, depending on the car.

With these settings, I did not have any problems for a very long time, but since RC 1.4.8.1 2305 AVX this strange issue comes and goes again.
First I thought that my PC might get too hot and this might interfere the communication with the wheel via USB.
But last year, the summer in my region in Europe was much hotter, and although my GPU got really hot from excessive playing of AMS 2, I never had this issue.

I will do further tests over the weekend with Default/Default+ and some custom FFB files.