Featured Automobilista 2 V1.6 Development Update - The New Cars

I can't recommend enough to try them all (the last available version), but give them a good try (it can take some time to understand what's been communicated).

 

Cannot argue with this. Over the years I've probably sampled a bit of most of the custom files out there, yours included. Just about every one of them has a different approach to FFB, what forces they highlight and integrate, what the final feeling is. Usually find something to appreciate in all of them. Funny part is as of 1.5, I've gone back to the "default" as my preference. Sometimes I'll switch it up for certain cars/classes as I may prefer or think that a certain style of FFB feels better for that car/class. Absolutely agree that everyone should experiment and try out as much as they can, you never know what you're missing until you get hands-on time with it. Since it's been months, I'm looking forward to checking out updated custom FFB profiles for 1.6 once you and all of the other great folks tweak them for the update.

 

AFAIK - Default+ is the standard mode for reporting on FFB issues / per-car issues.

I use Default mainly but often test with Default+ for comparison. Both are excellent imo, although each may require some changes to Gain / Damping / FX levels for best results.

The #1 mistake observed on user complaints of AMS2 FFB - (Either Default Preset) is not using settings which stabilize the FFB. Real cars have physical (whether in geometry or other mechanical means) to stabilize the steering system.

With Sim Steering-Hardware, stability may be inherent (Belt-drive for ex.) or not. Direct-drive wheels generally have no Automatic stabilizing forces and the inherent over-shoot tendencies (within the FFB signal) lead to wheel oscillation.

Add to that, each title handles internal ffb-signal a bit differently, and some require us to provide steering-stability (or balance) through various game-ffb settings. The AMS2 ffb-signal tends to be quite raw. The upside of that means we have access to all of the detail one could want in FFB. The downside is the ffb requires some understanding (and/or trial & error) through user-input to provide stability within the steering-system.

Step one in setting up AMS2-FFB should be to stabilize the steering through use of game-ffb Damping (or DD-wheel base Damping and / or Friction settings). Oscillation should be avoidable in any case; it is the obvious indicator of steering instability.

Is over-stabilizing possible? Absolutely. When the steering feels sluggish, the car's response to steering-input is lagging behind (slow self-aligning torque effect), that suggests the stabilizing forces are too strong. Loss of ffb-detail may also be an issue. Keep changes minimal to find a good balance, stable steering with good response to inputs.

 

I also use Default+ and it's excellent. However I haven't been able to erase the wild oscillations when letting go of the wheel above 60mph, seems to be a Moza thing as I have seen various Moza users with the same issue (R5 here) and I also have the same issue with LMU although on a smaller scale.

 

I also have these oscillations - CSL DD 8nm - but they're not so strong the I'd feel the urge to do something against it because I usually don't drive without hands on the wheel.

 

It WAS stated that all testing by devs is done on Default+. This was back before 1.5 came out. I clearly remember this being stated by the particular dev that was making the changes. Hope this gives you a more definitive answer to your question.

 

I have no experience with Moza however, the 4 different DD-systems I've used have all been effective at eliminating oscillation 100% through Damping & Friction. Once achieved, some fine-tuning should offer desired level of handling and detail.

If the center-steering feels a bit notchy, I increase Friction by 1pt at a time until it's gone. Damping may be done through the servo controls or AMS2 but after overall stability, I fine tune for steering-response (esp. oversteer response) and balance against detail retention / loss.

 

I mean c'mon, I am not talking about a "look ma no hands, duh", but when driving with a stick shifter and you use one hand and feel the wheel rattling your hand you will feel it by the end of a one and half hour race. The main issue being that the wheel oscillates violently by just easing the force you hold on to the wheel, not releasing them altogether, but if for whatever reason you do let go, it can hurt you badly.

 

Sorry, didn't know that you have oscillations that strong.
Hope you'll find a solution.

 

I use a Fanatec DD1 and have no oscillation with these settings.

 

With a Moza R12 I manage to get those oscilations under control by increasing the wheel weight a bit, and I found that I like the extra weight a lot. May not be as efective in a r5 but here are the settings:

 

As a lowly G29 user (I don't have space for a rig and desk clamping a DD wheel would probably destroy my desk...), Default+ is my go-to!
I feel it's nicely communicative, I usually have a good idea what the front end is doing in terms of understeer or locking brakes, and I can usually correct slides easily enough through feel.

Most custom ffbs I've used have felt quite numb and have a big ol' notch at 0°, so I gave up on 'em and went back to default+.

 

Yes this is exactly what I mean when reply to Mark Collins earlier.
I have a 20nm midge motor driven ffb base and the detail is insane even when turned down to 12 nm of peak force. With insufficient amounts of base friction or dampening it feels like the tyres are made of steel, far to much high frequency feedback + oscillation with default and default +.
It really is worth experimenting with 100 percent.

 

Last night I had a dream this update will release next Tuesday November 26.

 

If you follow this thread in the last page I discussed why RRE ffb is more realistic. I have 30 Nm Mige and to be honest I am afraid to try AMS2 on more than 25-30% becouse some of the effects can really dislocate shoulder of you don't let the wheel off your hands in some situations. Driving with actual 30 Nm is insane and can not replicate what modern race cars feel through the wheel but I wanted to say that some of the effects are not too realistic.
I like custom ffb profile becouse it feel really barebones but gives me the most important info through ffb. On Default and Default + I have to lower all to 0 except gain to percent that feels right.

 

Default+ is the full FFB experience. Default is really there just for people who have some issue with "+" (like your unusual hardware just can't seem to be configured to work nicely), or, who prefer only the most basic feedback.

After setting up Default+ properly, not always an easy task if you have a DD wheel with too-many distortion-generating sliders and options, and becoming familiar with it, exploring custom files will then be in the proper context so that you know what you are gaining and losing by comparison.

And, as mentioned above, for beta issue reporting, only the in-built profiles are relevant (except for the custom file authors, who may have some special insight and hopefully understand what part is Reiza versus what part is their own tinkering).

 

Full of electronics, too heavy, but mostly just to be contrarian Of course, they can be great fun to race, especially for the less experienced. And that's all that matters in the end.

I'm just being a touch sarcastic regarding their overwhelming popularity even when so many other interesting options exist

 

Lowering all the settings to 0 on Default/+ is exactly why you have problems (in addition probably to other issues with your base settings). Please stop spreading (false) negative impressions of Reiza FFB at least until you have configured it properly.

 

Most people buy their dd base and never learn it, treat as an arrive and drive. I run a sc2 pro and you have a lot of tweaking you can use. If people don’t enjoy or have time to tweak, at least learn your base

 

Well I had a dream I had snakes in my shed , I rather yours come true than mine