Automobilista 2 V1.1.2.0 RELEASED - Now updated to v1.1.2.5

You're saying BOTH damping settings on the wheel must be turned off?

I still think you guys are wrong. There are two damping setting on the Fanatec wheel. I have the wheel base damping turned off. The other damping setting is getting signals from the game. It doesn't add any damping by itself.

Straight from the Fanatec wheel settings:

 

Help me understand. The Fanatec manual indicates there is wheel base damping (Dri or NDP) dependent on wheel base(Reiza said set to 0). Then there is damping setting which is used for the in game setting either allowing 0% of in game up to 100%.

I have mine set to Dri 0 (CSW2.5) and damping 100% on wheel base to allow all in game damping. I then adjust in game to my liking.

I wish further clarification came from Reiza on this.

probably off topic so no more from me on this

 

lol dude it says it right there in first pic:

"DPR: This is not a constant damper, it is only controlled by the game and will not result in any other effects than what the game outputs."

To me, that's saying if you turn this off, you won't feel the damping set by the game. What am I missing?

 

Yet again, there is a dire need for such information to be in the game's UI or at least gathered on the AMS2 website. Trawling though this forum for half-remembered snippets of information and tips is time-consuming and breeds inconsistency.

 

Just had one of the most frustrating racing experiences in my life when doing the Formula V10 Gen2 Championship (50% distance in Imola 2001). It was in heavy rain conditions, and there were puddles on the inside of nearly every corner.

The AI gained about 2 seconds on me in the last chicane alone, because apparently the puddles didn't do much to them when driving slowly - they should have had to slow down much more. Also, their start was like they were accelerating in the dry.

On the other hand, they didn't drive around the puddles in Turn 2, and they were slowed down by the lake there, which meant that I gained these 2 seconds back right again. Still, quite frustrating.

Then, I pit for intermediates 8 laps before the end, and my pit crew decided to change my tires and then keep me where I was for 30 seconds - for absolutely no reason. Don't know whether that's a bug related to the fact that I still had "fix damage" on (even though damage was off), but that definitely ruined my mood.

Of course, my 20 million spins didn't help, but when the game first doesn't give you equal chances concerning puddles, and then steals 30 seconds from you, it gets a little ... tiring.

 

If you have any influence on your team owner then ask him to sack the pit crew.
Or maybe just make it forbidden to drink beer while a race is on.

ByTheWay: Does those pit guys smoke something - beside drinking?

 

In a more generic sense, Damping can be a bit more complex due to the fact that DD-wheels use a hardware Damping effect (Applied directly to the FFB-motor). Then there is the Direct-Input channel that controls the secondary game-output Damping channel. This essentially makes 3 possible damping settings between the game and the hardware / Firmware / Software.

In some cases, there are even more variations of Damper controls / filters that can be applied but, I won't go into that here.

So, for those using a DD-steering system, we have the following:

• Direct Hardware Damping applied to the motor (via Steering System-driver setting)
• Direct-Input Damping channel (May or may not apply depending on game) This effect is often used for steering resistance at stand-still / Parked. It is also one of the steering-system settings (wheel software / firmware) as a secondary effect and may be optional.
• Direct FFB Damping applied at the game-FFB output level (AMS1 / AMS2 use this)

This is why it may not matter what the wheel-software is set to, the Windows Direct-Input channel probably does not affect the other two Damping methods in this case.

Reiza is integrating the dynamic Damper into the game FFB output and making it variable for user preference. I think it works quite well in providing more of each car's steering characteristics.

 

I'm running both off too now lol

 

So what is consensus from thrustmaster belt driven wheel owners?

damping to zero in TM control panel and damping adjustment in game only then?

 

I thought you had a fanatec wheel

 

That's where things get a bit more confusing. Wheel manufacturers have their own unique naming conventions for their settings but, the basics as I described still apply. Sometimes, it's best to experiment to gain a better understanding of how they actually work. Process of elimination may be useful too.

For example: The Direct Hardware Damper is easy to identify because that force can generally be felt at the wheel without a game being active. Same for the Friction setting (If present).

Friction is great for removing too much slack near center or to add overall constant weight to the steering, like setting a baseline resistance level. If the FFB gain is at a point where you want it but, the steering feels very loose near center or when traveling straight, this can add a natural mechanical steering-rack feeling to the ffb.

Inertia has sometimes been described as Power-Steering for FFB but, I don't think that's an accurate description. It's more like adding a bit more punch or extension to force effects, making the wheel feel more lively. It can be useful for fine-tuning or balance certain effects but, I don't really use it as a rule. It may be more useful with certain steering systems though.