Automobilista 2 V1.2.2.0 RELEASED!

Again, I judge simulations by driving similar as possible cars, not on other sims, you will never hear anything on me about AMGs, Ferraris, Lambos or something like that. But Porsches and BMW that's serious business for me and I can look backl into a lot of time with quite diferent models since the 90's.

Regarding the RSR, I made a mistake in first Setups. there was no wheel detected by the game because it was unplugged. AMS2 no changes settings in regard to steering lock automatically, so all setuos where not made for a wheel but keyboard. After resetting all files it works a lot better now. but the overdone understeer and the tendency to lose the rear at low speed with low throttle is still there, just better controllable now.

 

thx, I will try that.
About front toe, the main reason for slight toe in is increased directional stability and self centering compared to zero toe (neutral). As I wrote a lot of times, toe out is really bad, while it gives also self centering, the diretional stability is decreasing and toe out is never meant for high speed, but rather for car slalom or Rally use.
Also the OEM sheets show me -0.05° toe in per wheel for 915 series, 0.1° in total.
I do not get it why AMS2 is so determined to set up nearly all cars with negative front toe. Only conclusion to me is that this might be latin american practice, but it is not what I am used to in central europe, not even for front wheel driven cars, with the exception of Rally Sports, as I said.

 

typo, without the minus.

 

[/QUOTE]ByTheWay: And I can tell you that because of my pretty special 100% handcontrolled wheel it takes more than 1H to calibrate it to something useable.
Because I both have to undercalibrate the 100% range and then tweak the 90 degr movement to make the total wheel range pretty unlinear.[/QUOTE]

I see where you mentioned that you "under calibrate" your wheel's rotation and "tweek" the 90 degrees to match.
I'm in a similar situation with my Thomas Wheel which only has 270 degrees of rotation.
I've tried a variety of calibration routines and sensitivity/linearity settings, but never feel like my wheel is providing a linear response.
I'm curious as to how you calibrate your wheel, and the resulting values.
Thanks!

 

same with procar m1 , great before, crap now

 

I'm not sure why people have so much trouble with the Porsche RSR. I had it out for a spin on the Nordschleife and it did very well:
Flugplatz goes well in 4th gear, Schwedenkreuz needs a tip on the brake and downshift to 4th then right back on throttle, Fuchsroehre goes full, brake early for left turn in to Adenauer Forst, 4th gear, 3rd gear, 2nd gear then the left right combination and back on throttle, almost full until Metzgersfeld, the most tricky part since it is a slow downhill left turn followed by a downhill right, expect weight transfer to the front and the back becoming very light, keep light on throttle, no problems between Kallenhard and Wehrseifen, the RSR does well on the uphill part, brake early for Bergwerk, down to 3rd gear, keep throttle on 10%, then go full until Mutkurve, light tip on the brake, down to 4th gear and with light throttle in to the Mutkurve, then back full, lift for the Klostertal right then full again until braking for Steilstrecke and then up to the Karussell, 4th gear for Hohe Acht and Wipperman, 3rd gear before turning in to the Eiskurve, the RSR wants to go wide here, no problems at Pflanzgarten, accelerate up to 5th gear and everything goes in 5th gear until Galgenkopf, brake early, down to 4th gear and back on throttle, 3rd gear for Schwalbenschwanz and Kleines Karussell, back on throttle and tip brake light for Doettinger Hoehe, go full until Tiergarten, lift and start braking at the barrier for the right turn, then left and right and you are done.
Of course, it is a lot different than driving a GT3 class car here but there are no real issues here either. The slow downhill turns are the only tricky parts.

 

Wow,Micropitt,the driving instructor for the Green Hell!

 

Has the bug in custom championships been fixed where the AI doesn't have to pit when forced pitstop is on? Has been working fine in normal AI races for me but not in custom championships in the last update.

 

?!?!?!
Why on earth would you do this?! This makes the progressions with speed sensitivity null and void! Now, in lobbies with locked default setup, I can't change this and have to deal with less turn-in than everyone else has. How is that an improvement?

 

I love the Porsche 911 RSR 74,
Nice balanced, got to brake to get pressure on the front wheels to make them turning in, When I go into a corner with a nice slip angel, the throttle helps me make the corners.
I love the concentration this car needs to drive it fast.
Also in the rain it is an balancing fest, I love it.
(Lets pray this car isn't changed to much)

 

I also agree with buddhatree, it's a beast & just what I expected. I got my driver's license back in '72 & grew up with these 70's style cars when they were kings! & also did a little amateur off-road truck racing growing up in so-cal in the 70's (I'm old as dirt) I have spent a lot of time throttle steering & going sideways but on dirt, not pavement lol. I had a quick race at Salvador in the RSR & had a big grin the entire time, power sliding, white-knuckling, to me, that's the inherent core of these cars. I'm not into having everything be perfect or exactly like the real car blabla its a game/sim & no sim out there can actually replicate the real feel of driving a car over the limit where you S&^$%T your pants & kiss the ground once you get out of the car. so for me, its all about the fun factor & what you need to do to be able to push the car. & with this beast, you have to use some finesse or she will snap & bite you & this gives the car a learning curve that is very rewarding once you start to figure it out. I could care less if "it's not like the real car" or whatever Like posted above ppl will always have a different opinion based on their expectations & will push that narrative to suit their beliefs & thats just another way of enjoying the hobie. To me, all of these sim's/games are simply "pretend cars 101". The first rule is to have fun! & this car does exactly that for me so, Thanks Reiza

 

Great to see a different kind of track inthe game.

 

Try it at Salvador. It can't go around any of the tight corners (I'm genuinely talking 25-40mph) without some weird baked in/programmed sliding (Front and rear, especially the rear). Even just cruising, not driving racy at all. Don't get me wrong, I can throw it around but still, that doesn't mean it's just right as of yet...

The slow speed physics have been somewhat of an issue since PC2.
In fairness though, some AMS2 cars have improved a lot which is great to see So I'm sure the RSR will receive a lot of upcoming changes and improvements.

Regards the throttle mapping. Try to rev it to anything under circa 3500-4000RPM (I can't on my gear) It's either tickover or 3500-4000RPM. No in-between at all, and it jumps to that while there's zero green bar on throttle input. Just trying to barely apply throttle.
Even if we are talking very high lift/aggressive cams, they would still initiate some form of throttle response. It would have lumpiness due to overlap and timings etc being spec'd for best performance at 'x' RPM range. A good example is the V8 supercar where it will 'Surge' on light throttle. That seems to be completely missing from the RSR.

As I say though, I'm sure it will change/improve a lot.

 

What I want is a reasonable (not too hysterical) resolution in the middle and a more and more progressive resolution when turning max.
But maybe that is not what you want.

I can get something useable by combining SteerLock(26) + Sensitivity(40) after calibration with my wheels own lock at 360 degr when the menu ask for 100% turn.
When the menu asks for 90 degr I turn until the number shows 208.
The 208 I have found by trial and error - but it is this value in combination with AMS2s sensitivity of 40 that gives the useable unlinear response ON MY WHEEL.
The final undercalibration is activated when I after calibration is able to ask my wheel to "compress" the 360 degree to ½(=180 degre) by changing its HW lock to 180 degr.

ByTheWay: There is no handbook for this tweaking so it takes a lot of time - thank you Reiza
But I guess for your wheel you will have to combine a high SteerLock and a rather low (under 50) Sensitivity value in menu settings - and then find your own replacement for my 90% value of 208.
But good luck my friend - you will need it

 

this...

Salvador, First corner , the car is sliding at 40 km/h...
We are all in with the game, but, this car is handling like an old renault 5 i used to have in the 90.
Brake an pray..
No real improvement on gamepad side...
Better luck next patch i presume...

 

@Renato Simioni can we expect some BoP for gt3 cars? Maclaren 720s it's just way too fast compared to the other gt3s, also could you share some light regarding AMD FSR implementation as it seems to be vrry easy do so so and we could gain some fps in VR and high resolutions as well.

 

Almost all modern racing cars use negative toe-in. They reduce it on fast tracks to improve top speed but on more driven tracks it goes quite a bit into negative territory. Even F1 cars are toe negative mostly.