Automobilista 2 V1.4.1.0 Released - Now Updated to V1.4.1.3

I just did the truck TTOTW and tested the same combo in race weekend practice while trying to match the time , day and season/weather and getting 142 fps in race weekend I was able to get about half a second over my TTOTW time, I'm sure it is the fact I only just get over 60 fps there instead of 142. Not only that, it looks and feels so much better.
I hope the fix is coming soon because it makes TTOTW rather un enjoyable. I certainly am not bothered trying much in cars I don't care for like modern GT cars.

 

I found I have been running with FX all along, I think it was at 40 or 50 but after reading some settings here from others changed it to 0. So you use the fanalab profiles?

 

Yes it's an odd feeling with the f trainers ! Best way I could describe it is like having space saver emergency tires on the back and two broken track rods on the front suspension .
Overall though I'm loving this SIM more and more , so much so that I'm close to uninstalling AC and all the mods I've collected over the last five years .

 

I see lots of advice about turning the fx down to zero lately , think I might be slightly confused as to the purpose of the fx slider . My understanding of it was that it increases or decreases the rumble type effects of road noise , curb feel and wheel scrub / tare and lockups? What I was sure it didn't effect was any wheel centering forces or overall weight or intensity of the steering rack forces . Can anyone please confirm or otherwise?

 

try them at Ibarra. I had a great race using those too me driving the 2002. That track balances out nicely the big differences in where both those models are strong and weak.

 

Agree! I love this car now on my new obsession, Fontana Sports Car Course. But I’ve also noticed since V1.4, I’m back to enjoying so many more cars. They just feel awesome and give me the ability to toss the car about so much more aggressively.

 

Sigma... Wow!!!

 

Need to add my +1 to Marc, munkyboo, James and GearNazi for their posts on setting ffb.

I'm now on Default (CSL Elite)

FFB 100
FEI 50
FOR 100
Spring 100
all other settings off/zero

In-game

Gain 65
LFB 10
FX 0
Damper 50 (for the moment)

On my previous settings, things felt better after the 1.4 updates anyway, but zero wheel-effects and using in-game Damper are a huge step-up from what I had; on turn-in, tyre load (up and down) feel fluid now, whereas on my old settings it was a bit saw-tooth.

Now I feel I'm getting far better information from the car than at any other point in AMS2, to the point where I'm now looking at a 1:52:00 in the Porsche Cup Car 4.0 at Snetterton;
previously I was struggling to hit 1:55/1:54s.

Fortunately I have the house to myself this weekend, so can now enjoy sitting down and fine-tuning my settings.

I've never cared for arguments about which game has 'the best' ffb - rf2, RRE, AC etc all 'feel' different, but all succeed in giving you the information you need to move the car at speed which, until recently, was where AMS2 failed for me.

It's really nice that AMS2's ffb is (again imo) finally there; feels as different to the other games as they do to each other but gives you the information you need, and does it well.

Nicely done.

EDIT: Formatting

 

Glad all our settings helped you out and that you are now enjoying the ffb! I was the same, I absolutely could not click with AMS2 because of the ffb and after Marc explained it to me, it all clicked with the changes I made in game.
I got lucky too, my wife and daughter are out until 10pm and since this week it feels like I have a new sim in my library. Today is obviously AMS2 day for me and I’m loving it!

 

Try my settings in post #895 and I hope they help.
With your wheel software turn off all canned effects and only use ffb strength, force and intensity. Everything canned turn them off.
FX to me amplifies details and makes them feel muddy and synthetic. It was the cause of my wheel not feeling natural and the jerking and jolting especially on default +.
On your wheel I would try 0, 1 or 2 for FX and see which you prefer overall.

 

My experience is that when you lock the front the steering wheel loses a bit of weight and quite some bite. I think the key is not to grossly exceed the grip initially because recovering is quite difficult.
In cars with ABS though you will never get a very big locking unless you set it very low. The signal that you are abusing grip is rather a quite evident understeer and unresponsiveness at turn-in.
Sound is not a reliable guidance in my experience

 

Heads up! I've got 87.9 MBs incoming from the hardest working crew in game development.

 

Just gave these skins a try on the ‘99 and they are very well done. I got a bit confused, the 1999 liveries are for the Chevrolet Omega Stock Car 1999(at least where I found them). Thanks for sharing!

 

Oh yes a tiny program to shuffle the small amount of available liveries could be a nice extention. Don t forget a Donation-button

 

I use in-game damper as well but I remain confused why people turn off DPR on wheel base. I get it for Natural Damper on DD which is an additional damper effect.

DPR 100% on wheel base means use all damper effect signal from game. DPR Off means ignore damper effect from game. I run in-game damper at 40 and wheel base DPR at 100% on CSW 2.5 (e.g. use all of the 40% signal.

This is straight from Fanatec website: Fanatec
Force (FOR), Spring (SPR), Damper(DPR) effects - (default = 100) (range: OFF -> 010 … 120)

These force feedback modifiers give you the ability to change the strength of the force feedback signals a game provides (only applicable if the game uses these effects). 100 means no modification;the lower values will reduce the strength and the higher values (greater than 100%) will increase the strength.

Am I missing something. Wouldn’t your DPR Off setting on CSL ignore the 50% in game damper?

Just providing for your reference. I know this is not the place for Fanatec wheel settings lol.

 

Hi azaris, I had a similar feel about braking (maybe since, 1.3 but definitely in 1.4 for the Ginetta GT(3) Open). I was driving RBRing in march with low track temperature and had the strange behavior of entering a slide at the very end of my braking into the turn (quite low break pressure already, normally modulated trail braking). One thing I found, is that the brake temperatures are really high at the end of my braking maneuvers. Maybe the cooling changed due to physics update + the defaults are set to 50%, so you have room to open it up. I opened the front ducts a lot (85% or so) and I felt some improvement. Maybe it's all about a brake fading of the fronts only and then the effective high rear brake bias generated my drifts. Just speculating at the moment, would be interesting to hear from setup professionals (@steelreserv) and / or one of the physics devs about it.

 

Think that dropped last night.

 

i feel f-usa gen 1-3 ultra slidy in fontana and mid slidy in daytona.

 

Cheers for the advice but I'm actually really happy with the feel I'm getting with my current setup . Am just trying to understand how reducing the fx can have any effect on steering forces as some people have suggested ?
Btw , Danielkarts last file he posted is a real beauty!! Very natural and progressive.