Automobilista 2 V1.4.3.3 & Racin´ USA Pt3 Officially Released!

Its a formula for University student teams, they build their own car and race it in the formula
Formula Student - Wikipedia

Here's the Cambridge Uni team: TTP Full Blue Racing

 

I did some more research after that post, and apparently it's the British version of what Americans call Formula SAE.

The competition in Formula Student and Formula SAE is to engineer the best car, not to drive a car the fastest.

I don't know how you'd implement Formula SAE or Formula Student in a video game.

 

Yes basically its very good for engineering students to get involved with and gain some practical experience. Its also good for business students to deal with costing/ sponsors and stuff like that

 

i tried with the wet track preset and the tyres still overheat alot, i was being very gentle on my pedal and steering inputs as well,

 

So I went on to RF2 and compared to AMS2. I don't notice a delay but I do notice RF2 returns harder and faster but then I noticed your in game gain settings of 22 for your CSW 2.5. That seems really low to me. Have you tried turning that up? I am on a t300 for reference and so your wheel has about double the torque as mine so I put my in game to 44 and I think I can see what you are talking about. I would think you should try 50 at least. Below is the recommendation for the CSL DD which I think as the same torque as the CSW 2.5.

IN-GAME:
Gain: 60
LFB: 7
FX: 50
Damping: 50

ON DEVICE:
SEN: Auto (Maximum steering angle)
FFB: 100% (Overall FFB Strength)
FFS: Linear (Force feedback scaling)

 

maybe track or ambient temp is playing a huge part of it, maybe the track temp is not lowering with the water on it?

but even at brands in todays date the wets were getting in the yellow and 90's

 

Your in-game settings are...unusual. I won't say whacked, but that was my first thought.

The new WIP soft lock in AMS 2 was put in because the FFB in AMS 2 is so fast--particularly on a DD wheel. It is the complete opposite of sluggish if you have the optimal settings. It is so lively it can be scary sometimes...just like a real race car...and that's on my older, lower-powered wheel!

Others have found this older post of mine about how to set FFB settings in AMS 2 useful: Automobilista 2 V1.3.0.0 RELEASED - Now updated to V1.3.0.1

Please check it out and I hope it helps. As an aside, better FFB settings will make the new stops "less bad" for you They are still less firm than the old ones, but should not be complete mush unless your settings are off. They are only mildly less firm than the old ones.

That being said, there may be some wonkiness with them for certain wheels or at certain times. I had an incident related to the last update that temporarily affected them. All still WIP...

EDIT: I see others have provided you some more typical settings for your wheel to try. Good, but going through the logical set-up process yourself is sometimes better if you want to really understand what each slider contributes to the overall FFB and feel.

EDIT 2: I would also recommend using complete default settings on your wheel, at least until you have the FFB dialed-in as best as you can. Then, try adjusting the wheel settings if you want to see how that affects things. If you adjust the wheel first, you can distort the whole process (a major issue for DD wheels with their multitude of sliders).

 

I mentioned this in a previous comment earlier , AMS2 ffb on my direct drive using the default profiles is certainly not sluggish ! Completely the opposite actually . Even with all my base to settings set to slow the wheel rotation down as much as possible it's stupidly over reactive , to the point where in most cars it's almost impossible to catch slides . I've found most custom ffb files are far more controllable personally.

 

Are there any plans to support the green MPS of the Fanatec Podium BMW M4 GT3 Steering Wheel in an upcoming patch? Even in the latest RC I still can not map the green MPS at all, the game just does not recognize any input when trying to bind it...

 

I am a bit confused on how the Low Downforce variants of some cars are selected and how they work.
The Low downforce C9 is auto selected if you try to do a TT on Daytona2, Top speed with zero downforce is around 354. Many of the times set already seem to use the standard variant of the C9 (Low Downforce is not specified in the name in the TT leaderboard and you cannot copy setup). The C9 in Spa Historic can reach around 360 on the long downhill straight. The difference seems insignificant compared to the Low Downforce variant, the ecpected behavior would be for the low downforce variant to be faster with the same downforce settings.

Speedway variants of the formulaUSA gen3 top out over 414km/h at Daytona while the normal variant in Spa historic does around 370. It would be preferable to manually be able to select circuit or Speedway variant regardless of track.

Maybe I am missing an obvious way to manually select the different variants?

 

Or proper settings with Default or Default+ will also get rid of over-reactivity and turn it into proper liveliness

 

I think the Oval / low downforce versions are considered unfinished in the RC. Assume it might change in the full release.

 

This could be a general weather widget. A short weather forecast (with realistic levels of inaccuracy) is something I've wished for occasionally to help gauge the need for a tyre change.

Ideally the AI could also utilize this forecast, sometimes resulting in varying pit strategies with varying levels of success. Written with the assumption that they currently only look at the track state.

Edit: That said, I think there's already some variance built in when it comes to the AI swapping between wet and dry tyres? I suppose this would be further fine-tuning.

 

I don't know tbh . I've literally tried everything but for me on my setup they are just too much . Luckily there are some fantastic custom files around so not a big deal really.

 

I hope with every update that I'll see a mention of this being fixed but I'm not even sure if it's been acknowledged. There's a post regarding this issue in the official bug report thread as well.

I often feel a goose when friends try out AMS2 and tell me the TC dial on my wheel doesn't work and I have to explain it's the dashboard that's broken.

I believe it works in some cars in other classes, just not all.

For me, no other game comes close to AMS2 for VR performance but it's frustrating having to break immersion and turn on HUDs.

 

This is a very flawed argument.
comparing a Formula car to a low grip front wheel drive is kinda null and void.

That track doesn’t have a lot in terms of slow tight corners that require low gear acceleration.
A lot of the heat comes from those acceleration or traction demands not lateral loading.

I tried the same track in light to medium rain and actually slightly lower temp and tyres easily reached over 100 degrees in a couple of laps. and above all the handling was atrocious with massive understeer.
Switching to slicks in same conditions and it was far better drivability and less understeer . which on got better as temps improve.
Traction is equal or better and the only phase of the drive it feels less optimal is under braking.

Basically it’s faster on slicks than the wets and they don’t die a firery death.

 

True--and it's all about finding something that works for each of us. I appreciate the amazing work the custom file guys have done, but find every version I have tried overly-damped...as though there is information squashed out of the spectrum and dulled too much for my liking. So 180 degrees opposite to you, but doesn't matter as long as we are both happy

 

The ai on ovals are very slow even in max dificulty. Ive had good races in the F-Usa but every other car ive tried im in the lead by lap 2. Even setting up the car to be as slow as possible you quickly pass the opponents. They dont make full use of the track and im not sure they are setting their cars up properly. They seem to top out much earlier than me