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Automobilista 2 V1.5 Officially RELEASED - Now updated to V1.5.0.5

Discussion in 'Automobilista 2 - News & Announcements' started by Renato Simioni, Jul 25, 2023.

  1. GregzVR

    GregzVR P1 passion, P10 talent.

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    Loving the period-correct pit crew! I haven’t done a pit stop yet, to see if it’s a one-man clone, or multiple randoms yet though.
    IMG_9116.jpeg
     
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  2. Michael Scott

    Michael Scott Member

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    Oh yes. Took me a good while working on the setup to dial out MOST of the understeer while keeping the rear stable. For brakes--I played around with front bump and springs, but opted to lower the overall brake strength to deal with the fronts trying to lock. I got it to a point where there was a long progression towards locking up, giving me some time to feather off the brake. It's good :)
     
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  3. Janitormentor

    Janitormentor Active Member

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    Spa 22 is good example of AI being slow in some corners. Beginning of second sector about first 2-3 (Les Combes) corners AI is very slow even on 120 difficulty. I can pass them easily in there but then come corners where AI thrive. That fast left hander (Pouhon)... :D AI needs some defending maneuvers and they hesitate to overtake sometimes.
     
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  4. F1Aussie

    F1Aussie Well-Known Member AMS2 Club Member

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    I had a go with the Nissan GT3 at Monza tonight and could spin it on exit of turn 2 with Tc on 6. I really had the rear softened as well to make it drivable. It is the first car I have tried outside the beta and the first of the updated cars I haven't really liked.
     
  5. Jezza819

    Jezza819 Member

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    I turned it to "Always" last night and never heard anything. But I never went back in to see if it had reset. I've had some settings reset back to default such as grid position.
     
  6. Johnny37

    Johnny37 Member AMS2 Club Member

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    guys, can anyone point me directions on where I can find a better Custom ffb for the G29? the one I used before the update feels a bit "outdated"
     
  7. dryheat94

    dryheat94 Active Member AMS2 Club Member

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    In Audio, you have to turn up the volume for pit radio or you will not hear the spotter.
     
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  8. Theodore Schultz

    Theodore Schultz Well-Known Member AMS2 Club Member

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    Also it only works in a race. Not in practice or quali but only during a race
     
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  9. steelreserv

    steelreserv Well-Known Member Staff Member AMS2 Club Member

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    Unfortunately, there is no official reference guide for optimal pressures for each class of car.

    However, you can use the Telemetry HUD and use the I-M-O (in, middle, out) method for setting your tire pressures.

    As you know, with tire cambering, the inner "shoulder" of the tire will be hotter than the outer shoulder. When the pressures are set properly, the temp in the middle of the tire will be exactly in between the differences in temps for the shoulders.

    For example, if your inner shoulder is 90c and the outer shoulder is 80c, at ideal pressure the middle temp of the tire will be 85c.

    Examples of tire temps that are NOT ideal would be:
    90c 89c 80c = over-pressured
    90c 82c 80 = under-pressured

    Keep in mind, using this method will take some brain muscle, as tire temps should and will fluctuate as you proceed around any track, so use the same reference point on track, like the start finish line.

    It usually takes at least 3 laps for the tires to normalize in temp and pressure and it may take several 3 lap stints to dial it in, but once you are happy with the I-M-O, simple take a look at the pressure in psi or bar, and that should be close enough to the optimal pressure for that particular tire and can be used for future reference.

    Other things to note about pressures. There are positives and negatives to over-under pressuring tires.

    Typically, marginal overpressuring concentrates the contact patch a bit more, causing more heat/wear in the smaller patch, they will provide a bit less grip, you'll slide a bit more, but it has a positive of less rolling resistance.

    Marginal underpressuring the tire makes the contact patch slightly larger, spreading the heat across the tread more, you'll have slightly more grip, but your rolling resistance will be increased.

    When you are greatly overpressured, the car will feel skittish and hard to control. When you are greatly underpressured, the car will feel sloppy, vague and less responsive

    Some pro tips for you though. Generally, keeping the tires as close to optimal as possible is best for optimal conditions. However, there are some circumstances where under or overpressing the tires can be beneficial. Wet conditions, you may consider underpressuring a bit. High speed tracks, a bit more pressure can give you a bit more straight line speed.

    But the car's that demonstrate the best usage of pressure are FWD cars where you can tune how much or how little the car resists off-throttle cornering rotation, simply by pressuring the rear tires.
     
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  10. cuadolo

    cuadolo Active Member

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    There's an apposite thread

    Logitech G29/G920/G27/G25 FFB Thread?

    :)
     
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  11. Racinglegend1234

    Racinglegend1234 AMS2 wiki founder AMS2 Club Member

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    So are your videos still usable?
     
  12. Andrew Hollom

    Andrew Hollom Active Member

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    I don't post here much because I always seem to get my head bitten off, but I've had my first go at AMS2 in ages, and wow, what a difference!

    I just did two races against the AI at the modern Kyalami, one the the 911 GT3 and the other in the 911 GT3 Cup and they were really fun. You can finally feel what the car's doing, the walking speed spin has gone, and you get a nice bit of lift-off oversteer (I know, Tom doesn't like that term!), so you can get around the penultimate corner with just a lift.

    In the past, I've done this, not enjoyed it, got bored within half an hour and dropped it again, but it feels more like a car and I had great fun with it just now, so well done Reiza for getting on top of the problems.
     
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  13. Jezza819

    Jezza819 Member

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    I was in a race but I haven't checked what the volume level is for pit radio as suggested by @dryheat94 but I'll try that out. Thanks.
     
  14. dryheat94

    dryheat94 Active Member AMS2 Club Member

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    I believe the default setting is at 0. They should probably change that.
     
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  15. steelreserv

    steelreserv Well-Known Member Staff Member AMS2 Club Member

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    As far as how to use IMO to camber and pressure, yes. The tires all conform to the pressure expectations of their RL counterparts now though which is one big difference.
     
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  16. tennenbaum

    tennenbaum Member

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    Thank you! This custom FFB file works really great. I took the "detailed" version and tweaked it to become a mix between "detailed" and "smooth".
     
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  17. steelreserv

    steelreserv Well-Known Member Staff Member AMS2 Club Member

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    It was being overused and misapplied at that time and I know we butted heads about it before. I imagine we are a bit older and a bit wiser now though.

    For the readers now, in order to explain the core element of my objection to the over-use of the term Lift-Off-Oversteer (aka LOOS):
    LOOS requires the element of critical traction loss. If you lift and the rear gets loose enough so that if you don't re-engage the throttle or counter-steer or both (in other words, if you lift and let the car "go" and it spins) it's LOOS. Exemplified by cars like older 911s and the Toyota MR2, where inexperienced drivers would take a corner too swiftly, and whose natural instincts would be to reduce throttle and by doing so, the car spins.
    If you lift and the car simply turns in, without the fear of spinning, the proper term is throttle steer.
     
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  18. Renato Simioni

    Renato Simioni Administrator Staff Member

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    V1.5.0.2 hotfix is now live:

    V1.5.0.2 CHANGELOG
    • Fixed some inconsistent overtake messaging displayed for backmarkers when the leader hasn't caught the safety car yet
    • Fixed a crash when loading a championship that had been saved after qualifying session
    • Fixed a crash on game boot when the first championship save has an unknown modded vehicle
    • McLaren F1 GTR: minor brake bias adjustment (setup reset recommended)
    • Ultima GTR Race: minor setup adjustments (setup reset recommended)
    • Generally adjusted AI performance when running slicks on a wet track, and extremes / wets / intermediates on a drying track
    • AI calibration pass for Porsche Cup, P1 Gen2 classes
    • Adjusted AI paths to correct jerky behavior in segments of the track at Indianapolis Road Course, Montreal, Nurburgring GP & Veedol layouts
    • Indianapolis Road Course: Adjust alt start path at T4 T5 T6 Montreal GP: Corrected alt start path junctions; Nurburgring GP Veedol
    • Foz: Added VR cams and updated TV cams for new joker layout
     
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  19. GearNazi

    GearNazi Well-Known Member

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    That's what we like to hear... And due to the tragedy of my fancy DD wheel giving the ghost, and sadly sitting in some packing material, awaiting shipping, I now had the opportunity to find out how it al works with my emergency backup; the trusty t300! As expected it's not the immersive experience and ultra-detail afforded by a DD. But my goodness have these cars come a long way.... I'm in the "process" of revisiting literally everything and going down the list. Imo, Heavy Messing, as we have it right here should be the default. After an hour or so adjusting back to the t300, it actually feels great! grip limits, back-ends contemplating leaving the house... It all comes together. Some standouts for me were the Super V8, GT1's, GTE(especially the Corvette) and seat-of-pants stuff like the Caterhams. If it can feel this immersive(granted, I'm 100% VR now for all things sim) on a t300, that's just impressive. Can't wait for my DD woes to be over, but this will absolutely work for the time being. I was a bit sad disconnecting my base and all earlier today. Big smiles now with the 1.5 and Heavy Messing.
     
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  20. GFoyle

    GFoyle Active Member AMS2 Club Member

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    Thanks, I watched your videos about such, but it was so long time ago, that I didn't remember all the details anymore.

    Anyway, went and tested this method with that one car that probably is exception to the rule... F-Ultimate gen2. It seems the middle temp is always higher on the fronts, even if you would lower front pressures to minimum. Also the inner and outer had similar values, outside the outer temp getting hotter than inner if I dropped the pressures to minimum (middle was still higher than both).I think also the camper was pretty much at maximum, so getting the middle heat up more than out wasn't an option with the camper setting.

    ps. not many FWD cars in AMS2
     

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