Troubleshooting - Automobilista 2

Reinstalled the game and no change, wheel does not work.

When I go to reassign them it doesn’t respond to any inputs.

 

Why won’t AMS 2 recognize my new Moza R5 Wheelbase and peddles

 

I've tried every solution.
All drivers have been updated. I also watched videos on youtube on other device. Tested on this headpones: Sony XM3, BD 880, Apple Airpods 2, Noble Falcon ANC.

The sound does not work correctly. The sound of the engine on the following cars has an imbalance:

1. McLaren720S - the sound is more on the left side
2. Porsche GTP - the sound is more to the left.
3. BMW GTP - after the patch the sound better. Transmission sound is fixed. But now engine sound more to the right.
4. Mercedes GT1 - the sound is a bit left, but better than on all the others.
5. BMW GT3 - sound is normal, but directional error if looking to the right or left. Also when viewed from the hood, the sound will only be on the left.

All the classic formula cars are fine, other GT3 and GTD fine too, new endurance package dont have any problems. I think this is due to pilot position error in the cockpit or sound relative to the pilot.

 

Yes and add my fav car in the game to the list, the Camaro GT4 which cuts out the right channel if turning left and vice versa. So strange it's only with certain cars.

I figured out how to reproduce, it seems to only occur on bonnet cam. If you have normal cam enabled and then slide the seat forward to outside the car the audio starts bugging out. At least I can play now by moving the camera to inside the car.

 

Recently received the new Turtle Beach VelocityOne Multi-Shift and the game does not recognize it at all. I can't choose any of the shift buttons as binds. I'm still fairly new to this game so I might be doing something else wrong but the shifter works right out of the box with AC and other games. Any suggestions on getting this working?

 

Just tried this and it didn't seem to work. For reference, I previously had my settings set to "Direct Drive Generic"

When I changed to Custom Wheel and Separate, the shifter seems to be recognized, but I can't bind gears properly. It'll either get stuck at saying "Please assign the new configuration" even when I'm shifting into each gear or it will say it's detecting multiple inputs and not save either.

Also, yes. brand new product on the market.

 

I suspect some interference related to jumpy input signals. Use a utility to check controller inputs and set them to avoid any input oscillations, especially near the ends of travel (DIview).

 

@Marius H Good idea. I'll give that a go tonight. Right now, the shifter is plugged directly into my wheel unit so maybe bypassing that and going straight from shifter to PC will do the trick.

 

I get this error and the game crashes when I try to enter some cars on certain (online) tracks, for example the Cadillac LMDh at Imola.

 

@Marius H I have yet to test out the program Dean linked but I did plug in only the shifter directly to the PC and every time I tried to bind the gears it would say multiple inputs detected.

 

@Marius H @Dean Ogurek Finally got around to checking DIView and seems like the inputs are being recognized correctly on there. What do you mean when you say "set them to avoid any input oscillations"?

 

If you see any of your controller inputs "Jittering" (numbers jumping up and down) on the line graph, those could be points of interference. You can alter the range of the controller output to avoid that jitter. There are videos online showing how to do that.

NOTE: Quite often, the pedal signals tend to have some jitter. Cleaning that up can help.

 

No jitter noticed and haven't noticed anything off about any of the inputs.

 

Any Fanatec controllers? I've had issues with flakey drivers or firmware with those where some titles wouldn't allow controller detection. Reinstallation (Fanatec) solved the issue.

 

No, using all Turtle Beach. VelocityOne Race and the above mentioned Multi-Shift. I also have a contact at Turtle Beach that said it's working fine on AMS2 in every configuration they've tested it in with the lasted firmware so it's definitely a "me" issue somewhere.

 

If you haven't already tried this, I would suggest unplugging all other USB devices and then test each controller - adding one at time. That could help to isolate the culprit.

Also consider other USB devices, especially anything that could be using an older or generic driver (mouse / printer / keyboard / USB hub, etc.). I use a drawing tablet and was causing intermittent interruptions where My wheel would disconnect during gameplay. There's also an app that help monitor USB activity - USBdeview - various websites offer it (free).

 

Problem: Logitech g29 Brake pedal calibration gets reset about 2 minutes into a session.
Steps attempted to solve:

• Verified files and reinstalled the sim
  
• Installed the previous GHub version
• Deleted the settings folder in Documents/AMS2/Savegame/numbers/AMS2
• Replugged wheel before sim start
• Replugged wheel while the sim is running
• Tried different USB ports
• Tried different wheel profiles (both G29 and custom)

Have tried setting deadzones in other apps and it seems to work there.
For what it's worth when reconnecting the wheel while the sim is running that causes the wheel input to be ignored.While it's ignored joy.cpl recognizes all its input.
* For what it's worth, deleting the config/settings folder while the sim isn't makes it remember the pedal calibration.

My research has yielded solutions for when the pedal doesn't calibrate at all, for when there's no recognized input at all, but not for this problem. Would be eternally grateful for anyone who has input.

Windows 11 26100.3194
AMS2 1.6.3.6
GHub 2025.1.673329
Logitech G29

*Taking any workaround as it's unplayable since Ghub doesn't have deadzone reduction.